Seed Saving

Saving Seed from vegetables and flowers

I’ve saved seeds of one type or another for a good number of years. The resulting crops or flowers that come from these can be a bit unpredictable, sometimes good, sometimes a disaster. That’s the main reason that I only set aside small areas for this type of production, leaving main crop vegetables to the professionals and shrubs I find do better from cuttings. I don’t let that fact deter me though. Here are a few pointers I follow for getting the best out of the valuable seed crops at the end of the growing season.

Hybrid plants

I went to a hybrid growers set up a few years ago and they take great lengths to keep any unwanted cross pollination away from their vegetable and flower specimens. Great sealed mesh cages are used in case pollen blows in. The plants have their own sealed units with only filtered air. These hybrid vegetables and flowers can be wonderful but the seed is often sterile or does not reproduce true to the parent plant. Therefore if you do save the seed, don’t expect miracles. If they grew true to type the hybrid growers would be out of business.

Open pollinated

Some plants’ flowers are open pollinated by insects, wind or people. These plants include, beetroot, broccoli, , celery, cauliflower, cucumbers, cabbage, chard , kale , melon, , mustard , , parsley , spinach, squash, radish and onion. These plants cross with others within their family. The only way to keep the original variety is to grow them really far apart, so it’s not really practical.

Disease

Some seeds may transmit certain diseases. A disease that infected a crop at the end of the growing season may do little damage to that crop. However, if the seed is saved and planted the following year, the disease may severely injure or even kill the young plants.

What can you save?

Standard types of seed that have been traditionally pollinated (wind, insects) or heirloom varieties that are not cross-pollinated by nearby plants are good candidates. Many gardeners successfully keep beans, tomatoes, lettuce, and peppers. Plants you know are heirloom varieties are easy to save.

What are heirlooms?

Heirloom varieties are usually vegetables that have been grown in isolation in a particular area, and have been selected over generations (of people and plants) to produce the best crop in that area, the strongest most healthy plants are saved and these seeds go on to be grown the following year. Heirloom varieties sometimes do better in their native growing places but they will adapt well to different locations over a few years. Again cross-pollinating with other compatible varieties causes the plants to wander away from their true type.

How to harvest?

Like with the heirlooms, harvest from the best plants. Choose ones that are disease-free with qualities you are looking for such as large ornamental flower heads or tasty vegetables.
Harvest mature seed. For example, cucumber seeds when we eat them are not ripe and won’t germinate if saved. Allowing the fruit and seed to fully mature ensures that they will grow. Waiting until nearly the end of the growing season to save fruit for seed will also mean they have more vitality.

When to harvest?

Plants with pods, like beans, are ready when the pods are brown and dry. When seeds are ripe they usually turn from white to cream colored or light brown to dark brown. Collect the seed or fruits when most of the seed is ripe. Do not wait for everything to mature because you may lose most of the seed to birds or animals. Some seed heads tell us when they are ready, the poppy sounds like a rattle when you shake it. This tells us the seed are dry and ready for collecting.

Storing seed

Dry cleaning

The drying process is spreading the seed on a screen or tray in a single layer in a well-ventilated dry location, hot presses are ideal. As the seed dries the chaff or pods can be removed or blown gently away. An alternative method for extremely small or lightweight seed is putting the dry seed heads into paper bags and giving them a good shake. Beans, peas, onions, carrots, corn, most flowers and herb seeds are prepared by a dry method. Allow the seed to mature and dry as long as possible on the plant.

Wet cleaning

Fleshy fruits benefit from the wet method of storing seed. Scoop the seed masses out of the fruit or lightly crush fruits. Place these in warm water in a bucket or jar. Let the mix ferment for a few days. The fermentation process kills viruses and separates the good seed from the bad seed and fruit pulp. The seed will separate from the pulp. Some say that the bad seeds float and the good ones sink. This can be true, but not always. You will tell by looking at the seed if they are healthy or not as poor ones will lack the shine of the viable ones. Tomatoes, melons, squash, cucumber and roses are prepared this way.

Storing the seeds

Dry seeds will stay fresh and healthy; if they are moist when stored they could go mouldy. Place the well dried seed in glass jar or envelopes. Label all the containers or packages with the seed type or variety, and date. A hot water treatment can be given to certain seeds such as cabbage, turnip or tomato to kill off diseases they might be carrying. Immerse them in water held at a constant temperature of 50° C for 25 minutes. Small grubs, hidden inside the seed shells can be killed by freezing the seeds for a couple of days, but only after they have been properly dried. The seeds can then live happily in a cool dark place such as the fridge. When taken out, allow them to return to room temperature before opening. The container or water could condense on the cold seeds and activate them.

How long can I keep the seed?

Seed viability decreases over time. Parsley, onion, and sweet corn need to be used the next year. Most seed should be used within three years although they have been known to live for thousands of years.

Armagh Visit

We’ve just returned from a very enjoyable visit to the historical town of Armagh. The town is enjoying a boost to the tourism trade this year by proudly hosting the ‘Earth from the Air’ photographic exhibition. This amazing display of aerial photography has travelled the world before arriving in Ireland, and Armagh was the city chosen to host this photographic portrait of the planet, which highlights issues about sustainable development.

Earth from the Air

‘Earth from the Air’, created by Yann Arthus-Bertrand, is a spectacular presentation of large scale photographs. The astonishing natural landscapes really make you look at the earth in a different light. The organisers’ wecommunic8 are showing a world with a growing population, shrinking biodiversity, polluted lands and oceans, a changing climate and a shortage of water. It’s a positive display though and strives to show us a world of beauty and of wonder.

Navan Fort

The observatory in the City gave us another view of a wider world beyond the universe and to top it all off we went back in time to the Navan Centre and Fort. This is claimed to be one of Ireland’s most importance archaeological sites. The legendary Emain Macha (Navan Fort) is steeped in legend and folklore as this is the ancient seat of the Kings and Queens of Ulster. One feature they have is the reproduction of a willow and thatch house and an “in character” Celtic community who bring history to life in the Iron Age/Early Christian period dwelling with demonstrations of cooking, weaving, farming and advice about how to marry your children off at the age of 12. We lived for less time then (thirty five summers if you were lucky, they tell me) so it made sense to make the most of things. Wealth was measured in how much livestock you owned and wealth was displayed by eating bread (you would have needed slaves to till the ground) and by turning your fur lined garments at the edges so neighbours could see it or having a gold brooch instead of a bronze one. You could divorce your partner for belittling you in public and men and women, although having different roles had equal status. Everyone had a vegetable patch though, although the crops grown were different. These included plants that we usually see in the hedgerows; like sorrel and wild herbs. This brings me nicely back home to our own veggie patch.

Lesson learned

It’s only been a few days since we went away but a lot seems to have changed in the garden. One lesson I have learned about the garden is to only try to keep it tidy in the dormant months. There seems no point working against nature and attempting to keep things orderly. The hedges have shot up and the grass has grown a foot but I don’t care as I can tidy these up later when the growth slows down. The vegetable beds are doing really well too, yes there are weeds that are easily hoed down, but the courgettes, runner beans and lettuce plants are so large now that no weeds can keep up with the. Tthe bed preparation at the start of the season really pays off now in the most productive time in the garden.

Fixing the bed

We still have one bed that doesn’t seem to be doing much. We planted courgettes and peas but they have grown really badly. We know the problem. The bed is too close to an escallonia hedge, too shaded by a willow tree and too dry because of the two afore mentioned problems. On closer inspection the soil is bone dry and this is after three days of heavy (ish ) downpours. We have decided that it’s not too late to improve and re-plant the bed, so I have added some well rotted compost from the compost bin and teased it into the parched soil, this will help retain the moisture and give it a feed too. I decide to plant some mangetout and spinach and give them a good watering. It is a bit late really for the mange tout but if they don’t grow well enough to crop they are still nitrogen fixers and they can rot down into the soil over the winter. I should get a crop of baby leaves for the spinach too. I also plant some more salad crops, lettuce, spring onions, radishes and rocket. I replant some of the alpine strawberries. They are doing really well. I planted them from seeds last summer and they are re-seeding well this year. It’s not the best time to move them, but they are hardy little plants and will soon adapt to their new home.

Over the next couple of weeks there are a few plants that can be sown to increase the productivity of the garden. Green manures are great for sowing now and then dug into the beds next spring before planting. Field beans, red clover, radish tares and rye are all excellent.

Other veg you can grow now includes; Spring cabbage, chicory, fennel, Kohl rabi, land cress, Japanese onions, Pak choi, peas, swiss chard, turnip and winter puslane. With a bit of planning there should be no reason why we can’t be adding our own fresh herbs and veg to soups all year round, just like the characters at the Navan Centre say they do.

Nature Walk

Growing herbs

Herb Gardens

Why Grow an Herb Garden?

Growing herbs has been a part of life on every continent for thousands of years. Herbs are prized for their scents, medicinal and aromatherapy properties, but are most popular locally for their use in seasoning in cooking. Planting a small sized kitchen herb garden is easy and satisfying. The flavourful, therapeutic, and fragrant plants are beneficial to the family and the garden. Herbs grow perfectly in the beds and borders, pots and even on the windowsill, so there’s absolutely no excuse not to grow at least one type of herb, even if it’s to keep flies away from the kitchen worktops. (Basil is good for this).

Herbs are easy to grow

Herbs can tolerate all types of tough growing conditions. Most of them were originally wild plants that grew in poor soil. Some varieties can be spoilt by the lush conditions of a garden. If they grow too large their flavours and properties become lessened. It's a myth that all herbs like full sun; even good old basil likes partial shade at midday. So when planning your garden, you can divide your plants into two sections. There are those like thyme, sage, rosemary, French tarragon and oregano that like full sun and those that like partial shade, such as rocket, sorrell, lettuce, mustard, parsley and chevril.

Which herbs are best to grow for a beginner?

Coriander, rocket, chives and parsley are easy to grow from seed. Seeds can be sown where you want the plant to grow and don’t need any repotting. You can still grow rocket seeds now – they are ready to eat in a few weeks. Cuttings can be taken of sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano and marjoram –or you can buy them in your local garden centre. Mint can be divided from a friend, but best keep it in pots as it is rampant. Basil is a lovely herb for cooking with –especially yummy in tomato and Italian dishes. It needs good sun though, and is usually repotted when grown from seed. It is prone to greenfly. All these herbs are useful for a basic culinary herb garden and they grow well in containers.

Growing tips for herbs in containers

Herbs grown in containers can be the perfect solution if you are limited for space.
They are a convenient way to have your herbs handy so you have quick access when preparing a meal.

• When growing herbs in containers, use a soil-based compost, either organic or something like John Innes potting compost. This is because there are very few herbs that grow in peat, and a soil-based compost retains moisture, which is a must to stop containers drying out.
• Water the containers in the morning rather than the evening because this gives the plants a chance if the temperatures are hot during the day, especially for containers grown in full sun.
• Feed container plants weekly from March until September. This keeps the plants healthy, helps them produce tasty leaves, especially on cut and come again salads
• As we are on the coast, a seaweed-based feed is ideal or you could make your own comfrey or nettle juice now. These are not too strong and both will keep the plants healthy.
• Try not to plant invasive herbs such as mint and lemon balm in a container with other herbs. They will swamp the other plants and take over. It’s better to grow them in separate pots instead.
• Harvest herbs by pinching off the tips of the plant for use in the kitchen. This will encourage new plant growth, and help keep the plant more compact.

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Outdoor Herb Garden

Look at the final size of the herbs when planting. In a small bed there won’t be enough space to cultivate herbs such as lovage, lemon balm, fennel or angelica. These large herbs would dominate the other plants and appear out of scale. Many popular choices of growing herbs can be fitted comfortably in a bed sized about 3.5m x 1m. Confine annuals and invasive type herbs such as mint to containers.

Add Herbs to Traditional Vegetable Garden or Flower Borders

Sow dill, borage, and marigold seeds in containers for use when gaps appear in the garden. Add young marjoram, savory, and feverfew plants to the edgings of other low perennials.

Indoor Herb Gardening

• Many herbs can be successfully grown indoors in a container herb garden.
• Choose a sunny windowsill to arrange the containers.
• As with most indoor plants, over-watering can be a bigger problem than under-watering.
• Be sure that your containers have adequate drainage. A few small holes will be more effective than one big one.
• Harvest herbs by pinching off the tips of the plants. This encourages bushy plant growth

Harvesting Herbs

Most plants will benefit from being harvested regularly. This encourages vigorous, new growth & prolongs the supply of fresh material. It also improves the shape of the plant, making it bushy & sturdy.

What to look for when harvesting

• Leaves should be harvested just before the plant flowers.
• Flowers are at their best when they have just opened.
• Fruit should be just ripe.
• Seed is ripe when it changes from green to brown. For seeds in pods, shake the stem. You will hear the seeds rattle when they are ripe.
• Roots are at their best when the top growth of the plant has completely died back, in autumn or winter.

Here are some ideas to help you get the most out of the herb garden and enjoy the soothing, medicinal and flavoursome delights that these plants have to offer all year round with a bit of preparation.

Drying the herbs

Harvest herbs for drying on a dry, sunny morning.
Cut the stems just above ground level on a still day after the dew has evaporated off of the leaves.
Trim and compost any discoloured or damaged leaves.
Tie into small bunches and hang in a dark, dry, airy place, or put them in a paper bag punched with holes. This will keep them clean and help the drying process.
When the plant is completely dry, it will become brittle. Remove the leaves from the stems and store in airtight jars, preferably in a darkish place.
To keep the maximum flavour, store the leaves whole & crush, if necessary, just before using.

Freezing the herbs

Freezing is the best method for preserving the colour, flavour and nutritional content of herbs with soft, lush, green leaves, (eg. chives, dill, basil, mint, tarragon).

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• If the herbs have any strange looking things on them, you might want to give them a rinse. Dry afterwards. If you can avoid washing them, all the better as I think it holds the taste better
• Freeze the dried leaves in plastic bags, in bunches, on the stem. There is no need to thaw before using, just add at the end of cooking.
• Alternatively, chop the herbs finely, put them in ice-cube trays and top up with water. Flowers, especially borage, can be frozen in ice-cubes for adding to drinks.

Preserving herbs in Oil or Vinegar

Herbs preserved in oil or vinegar are very useful for adding flavour to many dishes. The leaves discolour slightly but it’s the infused flavours in the oil or vinegar that are important.

Herb Oils

Fill a wide-necked, sterilised jar with the fresh herb, broken into pieces with your fingers. When the jar is full, cover with good quality olive, sunflower, safflower or almond oil -preferably organic. Put on a tight fitting lid. Stand the jar in a warm or sunny place, covering it with brown paper if it's in a sunny position. Shake at least once a day for 14 days. Strain and store out of direct light.
Suitable herbs to use in oil are: basil, garlic, fennel, lavender, rosemary, savory, tarragon, thyme.
Spices, chillies and orange or lemon peel can be added to help enhance the flavours.

Herb Vinegars

Bruise the herb by rubbing through your fingers and fill a wide-necked jar. Top up with warm (not hot) wine or cider vinegar. Treat the same as you would for the herb oils by shaking and keeping out of bright lights.

Suitable herbs for vinegars include: bay, chervil, dill, elderflower, garlic, fennel, lavender, mint, rosemary, tarragon and thyme. Spices, chillies and citrus rind can also be added.

Fruit vinegars are made by the same method. Roughly chop the fruit in a food processor first.
Suitable fruits to add to vinegar are: blackberries, blackcurrants, blueberries, gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries.

Herbs for Companion Planting

Most herbs can be perfect companions to other plants in the garden. Here are a few ideas.

For an effective deterrent against greenfly try:

Aphids and greenfly: Lots to choose from here: Catnip, Chives, Coriander, Dried & Crushed Chrysanthemum, Eucalyptus, Fennel, Feverfew (attracts aphids away from Roses), Garlic, Larkspur, Marigold, Mint, Mustard, Nasturtium, Onion, Oregano, Petunia, Sunflower.

Basil – Plant with tomatoes. They also repel flies and mosquitoes.
Borage - Helps strawberries to thrive. Assists tomatoes and squash. Borage attracts bees into the garden too.
Chamomile - Plant with onion and cabbage.
Chives - Plant near carrots and apple trees. Chives steeped in water makes a great spray to kill powdery mildew disease.
Comfrey - This herb is often used in compost and as organic fertilizer made into a compost tea. Enriches soil.
Dill - Plant near cabbage, lettuce, corn, and cucumber. Don't plant near fennel to avoid cross-pollination.
Garlic - Plant near fruit trees and tomatoes. Repels red spider mites. Great insecticide steeped in water .
Horseradish – Keeps pests off of potatoes.
Hyssop - Plant near cabbage and grapes.
Lemon Balm - Great for tomatoes.
Lovage – Good planted near practically everything.
Marjoram - A close second to Lovage.
Mint - Plant near cabbage but never near parsley.
Nasturtium - Loves broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower), fruit trees, and radishes. Great insect repellent.
Oregano - Loves grape vines. Insect repellent for cucumber beetle.
Parsley - Loves tomatoes, carrots, chives, and asparagus but doesn’t like mint.
Rosemary - Loves beans, carrots, cabbage and sage but not potatoes.
Rue - It is effective near strawberries and fig trees but never near basil. Plant it wherever you don't want cats to go.
Sage – good with rosemary, cabbage and carrots but never with cucumbers.
Summer Savory - Likes onions and beans.
Tansy - Likes fruit trees.
Tarragon - Likes almost everything.
Thyme - Keeps worms away from cabbage.
Valerian - Good in compost heaps and good for earthworms.

There is no reason why you can’t grow at least one herb. All you really need is one plant pot, a few seeds and a bit of soil and you are ready. Why not try being self sufficient in just one herb, pick one that you enjoy and would normally buy from the shop. Try parsley, coriander or chives.

Herb Seeds

Introducing the attractive sight and deeply aromatic smell of herb varieties to your garden is a real sensory delight, but that's nothing compare to the taste explosion you experience once these culinary plants hit the kitchen table; just imagine turkey without sage and onion stuffing, lamb but no mint sauce and pasta missing a sprinkling of just-picked basil...But you can banish those unpleasant kitchen thoughts with the help of Harrods selection of 100% organic herb seeds which features all the old favourites such as basil, thyme, rosemary, sage and parsley, and a few highly rated but lesser known examples such as borage, savory and chamomile.