Barbeque's

I remember the lengths we used to go to cook food “al fresco” before barbecue’s came along and were affordable to the masses. A friend of mine wanted a can of soup when we were camping in the woods so threw a can of Heinz mixed vegetable onto our campfire and waited patiently for it to warm up. He didn’t have to wait long as it exploded in his face. After cleaning up the mess on both he and the tent and then eating the tiny bit that remained in the bottom of the jagged edged can with a fork, he went home to nurse his wounds. He told his parents that he came off of his bike, as it was too embarrassing to give the real story.

Cooking Outside

Cooking outside can be very civilised with the introduction of barbeques. What probably started out as a bit of wire mesh over an open fire has progresses to some very space aged designs and variations. Glancing through this seasons Argos catalogue I see models ranging from the tin foil tray to a six ring gas burner complete with a wine cooler. The tin trays now come with a stand to keep the heat from radiating from underneath and scorching whatever they have been placed on. The country is branded with rectangular scorch marks where enthusiastic outdoor diners have made their mark on public property. The basic metal types are adequate for most of us without having to spend the 700 euro needed for the top of the range ones. It’s more fun not having a knob to regulate the heat, that’s like cooking in the kitchen. We need (I’m talking about men here) to have control ourselves of the raging inferno that’s going to part cook our chicken.

Bricks

Our own barbeque in the garden is influenced heavily by the person before us who spent a lot of time in Australia. It’s made from bricks and instead of a wire mesh to place the food onto it has a thick steel plate. The plate is curved slightly so that the fat runs away from the food. We do the cooking by using well seasoned wood, which makes the food taste delicious. It’s a bit embarrassing to confess that we have only got it going once this year. I could make excuses about the weather not being fit, but that would be a very weak excuse as there have been loads of days that could have suited. It’s just that kick starting the outdoor cooker into life seems like a lot of bother to go to when you want to cook four burgers for the kids. Maybe I should invite people around more.

52 Gallon Drum

One of my favourite designs for a cooker was done by Johnny Blegs who waited a year for an old 52 gallon drum to become empty, normally the drums contain crude oil but this one was used for honey, yum. The end result after a lot of cutting and screwing is a beautiful looking piece of art for the garden which could be compared to some of the gas cylinder wooded stoves that are on the market and used as chimineas. The legs are made from scrap galvanised piping and the ability to close up the cooker and reduce the air flow enables him to slow cook the meat, leaving it anything up to 6 hours to tenderize. No part cooked chicken with this method of heating we will be pleased to hear.

Chimineas

Chimineas originated in Mexico thousands of years ago and were used both for cooking and heating. Most of the ones available to us here are ornamental and only used very infrequently and can be made from cast iron, steel or clay. The clay material was the original method of making these and if they cracked, as the often do, with the heat, you could just scoop up another handful of clay and patch it up. Cast iron ones are a bit more technical to fix though and generally end up in a skip when this happens. They look lovely in the garden but best not build up a fire if there’s risk of a downpour as it’s the hot/cold of the water on the hot surface that cracks them. This isn’t such an issue in Mexico as it rarely rains.

Youtube

 

Raised beds..fed and not fed

We’ve been making Youtube video’s today. It’s been a while since we kept our 33 subscribers happy. We’re working our way up to Justin Beiber’s level and looking for 605 million video hits, we’ll settle for 100 at the moment, you have to start somewhere.

Making more videos

Our first short video was an update on deadheading roses. Our first attempt with a video a few years ago ended up as an outtake as I was too busy getting tongue tied and laughing on screen to do anything ( I put it down to first time nerves). It’s still not appeared on Rude Tube or You’ve Been Framed yet, probably because I wasn’t riding on a skateboard, naked or falling off a table drunk at a wedding. Now there’s an idea...

Roses, it depends who you talk to...

It depends who you talk to when it comes to deadheading your rose bushes. The usual method is to cut off the faded flower at the first big stem joint. This is supposed to rejuvenate the plant into a second flush of blooms. If your rose only flowers once a year then the flowers can be left on to produce hips. The other method is to just nip the head off just underneath the flower itself just where the hip would develop. This keeps more foliage on the plant, which in turn produces more energy, producing more flowers. The debate continues but just noticing that your roses need attention is a step in the right direction. The time for cutting the plants back comes later as the end of autumn arrives. Giving the plants a good cutting back of the old wood keeps them solid in the ground reducing the chance of wind damage as roses tend to work themselves out of the soil even though they have a long taproot.

It’s funny writing about this now. I didn’t say any of this in the video. All the1minute film consisted of was a slow motion shot of me cutting a stem, the dog running around with the cut stem in his mouth and fast action music playing frantically in the background for dramatic effect. Oh, how we laughed making it...In hindsight it’s not that informative...or funny.

The second video update was more of a seasonal warning about caring for raised vegetable beds, dramatically stating that “This could happen to you if you are not careful” This is what happened to us because we weren’t careful:

Raised Bed Update

At the end of last year I made the raised beds and filled them with soil. The soil came from Linsfort on two big lorries and looked pretty good with a good proportion of sand, silt and clay. The main thing that was missing was nutrients, but that’s what creating good soil is all about, working on it until it’s full of goodness for the plants to thrive.

I fed some of the beds with well rotted cow muck but put it quite deep and didn’t mix it in. The other beds were just left without any soil enhancing at all (I ran out of cow muck, it wasn’t a grand plan for research). I planted the mange tout into the bed with the cow muck and after a slow start the legume roots managed to tap into the added nutrients and have shot eight feet up in the air to the top of the hazel rods producing lots of fine fresh pods to eat. The other bed without feed has the runner beans in them and they are a disaster. The leaves are pale and sickly looking with stems that should be nine feet tall hardly getting past the two foot mark. Add to this the fact that no beans are appearing means that it’s going to take more than a few pints of nettle juice to revitalize these plants. The peas haven’t fared much better either, the hazel structures look great but the only thing that’s growing up them at the moment is the weeds. Our dog loves the peas even if they are a bit chewy, he likes the pods too for that matter.

Talking of weeds, I put some of the raised beds down on top of some small coltsfoot plants and they have penetrated through the paper and cardboard I put down then grown through the soil and taken over the beds. The courgettes didn’t stand a chance as the rose bay willow herbs have taken over. It’s not all doom and gloom though, there is loads of chickweed, and the guinea pigs love that. So there might be a couple of plump additions to the Christmas dinner table this year.

ps
Mary from Greenhilld farm rekons that the beans will fix their own nitrogen...It was probably the fact that the beans were in a cold spot...she's right again I'd say.. :)

Covering an oil tank

 

Our oil tank could be seen from space when it was first installed. The tank glowed bright red and used to be a bit of landmark when the house was first built in the 1980’s, you were never lost when you had the tank as a pointer. Over the years the colour has faded slightly and also certain measures have been taken to tone the glowing barrel down a bit.
Around the tank there is a leylandii hedge, which is allowed to grow to about three feet high,. There’s room between the tank and the hedge to walk around for maintenance and if you are anything like me storing old coal bags and moving things out of sight.
Over the tank we have a large honeysuckle climber growing and providing year round cover, even when most of the leaves have died off in the winter. The branches are now so thick and prolific you can hardly see the tank. All that is needed is a bit of snipping with the shears and we manage to keep the plant from covering the hole and lid where the soil tanker driver fills up once a year. The tank is practically invisible in the garden and people in the area have to find other methods of finding their way home.

Covering your oil tank

Most of us wouldn’t put leylandii around our tanks as they can grow too quickly and become unsightly but there are plenty of other shrubs and climbers that could be used. Just remember to keep the shrubs at least three feet away from the tank to give them a chance to grow and still give you access to the tank. Climbers can be planted a bit closer to the tank, but try not to get the roots under the tank as a fuel leak could kill off the roots, even a very infrequent dripping could have disastrous results.
Bamboo might look very pleasing also but check that the type you buy isn’t a big spreader. I have heard stories where the bamboo totally engulfs the tank and also heads out towards the neighbours gardens. Digging down to over one metre didn’t get all of the roots out either.
Trellis
You could get some attractive wooden trellis to put around the tank. If you do buy the trellis from diy shop, try to get treated wood that is at least one inch thick and got a lot of strength to it. There’s no point in setting up the trellis and it rotting and collapsing before the climbers have had a chance to grow over the tank. There might even be synthetic screens you could get to put around the tank. You can get them for wheelie bins made from plastic grass so I can’t see why not.

Water Storage

As I am on the subject of outdoor tanks, has anyone considered installing rainwater storage into their gardens to help irrigate the garden and supply the house with water for washing, heating and even drinking? Convert what you get for free running off the roof into money saving method to be used for household services and watering the garden. You don’t even have to spend extra money buying plants to cover it.
The bigger tanks are best put in when the house is being built as it can be quite disruptive but there are smaller types that can be fitted that would be no more inconvenient than installing a small pond. 3500 litre tanks can supply enough water for a household of four people. They will also offer one of the fastest payback rates (when the water charges are brought in) of any other green energy saving method for the house. You could build a system that gave you toilet flushing, car washing, clothes and cooling systems for less than €1000. You would also be totally independent of the water companies if restrictions or price increases were brought in.

Cotoneaster

Q. I didn’t mention cotoneaster when it came to covering your oil tank. One of the reasons is that I find these plants very invasive. Not because of them growing too fast or having large root systems though. It’s mainly because they self set from the seeds that the birds drop. They don’t just self set in easy to reach places either; the roots get a hold in the most awkward places too, especially in concrete and asphalt. I have had a question asked about how to get rid of these shrubs when they self set in the gap between your driveway and the house wall. The shrub is cut back every year to ground level but just keeps coming back, stronger than ever. It has cracked their concrete and can also do the same to asphalt.

A. The shrubs could be dug out. This would mean the area would have to be re-concreted or asphalted. This could be very messy, depending on the size of the shrub and root system. If the shrub can't be dug out safely, one suggestion would be to use a systemic weedkiller such as a brushwood killer. This would kill the roots too. Don’t chop back the foliage beforehand because that’s how the poison is taken down to the roots. I don’t  use chemicals at all and would always try to find an alternative. But in this case, the house foundations might be at risk if something wasn’t done.

Extreme Rose Pruning!!!

Safety in the garden -Especially with step ladders

 

Gardening injuries

Gardens can be a place of pleasure, relaxation and exercise. They can also be a dangerous place. In Ireland and the UK there are over 100,000 people attending accident and emergency hospitals every year with gardening related injuries.
According to research done by the BBC, the lawnmower tops the list of the most dangerous pieces of equipment, with 7,500 lawnmower related accidents reported each year. Surprisingly the innocent looking flowerpot is the second most dangerous tool, causing 6,300 accidents, with falls, cuts and lifting injuries some of the most common types of accident recorded.

Here are some reasons why accidents happen in the garden:
• Ignorance of potential risks.
• A lack of planning and preparation.
• Taking shortcuts and not preparing areas before starting work.
• A lack of skill or training to ensure that the job is done safely.
• Being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

DIY shops are full of mechanical equipment to make you life easier in the garden. There have been recent reports of counterfeit goods being sold on the internet which look like the real at discounted prices. They are mainly chainsaws and power tools and could be potentially lethal as the safety cut off switches and low grade casings could be accidents waiting to happen. Always buy off reputable dealers.


How to make the garden a safer place
You can help to avoid accidents by following some simple guidelines:

• Empty paddling pools after children have finished playing in them.
• Learn which plants are poisonous and ensure children and pets stay away from them.
• Avoid trip hazards such as loose paving slabs, hosepipes left unravelled or uneven surfaces.
• Use surfaces that provide a good grip underfoot, especially on decking.
• Avoid the garden if possible when conditions are icy and slippery, again, especially decking.
• Do not leave sharp tools lying around. Lock them away from children.
• Wear safety equipment - such as goggles, hard hats, gloves and steel toe capped boots - when using machinery and tuck in loose items of clothing.
• Never leave a barbecue unattended and make sure the flames are extinguished before going to bed.
• If you are in the least bit unsure about the safety of tackling a job, call in professionals.
• Electrical equipment should have surge protectors RCD (residual current device) and never be used in wet weather.
• Lock away chemicals such as weedkillers and insecticides. Just because they have the words 'organic' or 'bio' on them, does not make them safe to touch.
• Design a garden so that it reduces the need for high maintenance and lifting.

Using a step ladder

Apart from the obvious reason of being covered in paint, the main superstition for not walking under a ladder stems from the days of public hangings, the only time they would see a ladder is when the body was being removed. We still need to be wary of stepladders, here are a few reasons why:
One of the biggest dangers with a stepladder is when you work sideways. Putting pressure on a screwdriver or a bow saw is enough to push the ladder over and you with it. Face the work directly and preferably have someone holding the base of the ladder at all times.
Don't overstretch yourself. Ensure the ladder gives you enough height for the job. Teetering on the last rung of the ladder isn’t a good idea.
Never leave tools on the platform at the top of the ladder. These become very dangerous if the ladder is knocked at ground level as the tools can come crashing down, and not all of us wear hard hats in the garden.
Ensure the ladder is in good condition and the rungs are structurally sound and not damaged, rusty or dented. Having a rung missing can be a disaster.

More brief tips:
• Is a ladder the best tool for the job? In many cases, a scissors or aerial lift is a safer option.
• Do not paint wooden ladders.
• Keep ladders at least ten feet away from power lines.
• Stand in the center to avoid tipping.
• Do not carry objects when moving up or down.
• Never move a ladder with someone on it.
• Lower an extension ladder before moving it.
• Never leave unsecured ladder unattended.
• Always secure a ladder by tying it down or having someone hold it.
• Keep areas around ladders clear.
• Do not tie ladders together unless made for that purpose.
• If possible, use a personal fall protection system attached to a secure point when working from a ladder.
• Check the ladder has rubber feet to prevent it slipping and place them on a flat hard surface.
• Make sure the ladder's feet are on solid, even ground and the angle isn’t too steep.
• Keep the steps clean and dry.
• Keep one hand firmly on the ladder when working.
• Do not leave prunings on the rungs of the ladder. They could become slippery and create a trip hazard.

Personal safety equipment

Always make sure that you are wearing the correct Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to avoid a serious injury when working in the garden. This is particularly important when operating machinery such as mowers, strimmers, chainsaws and hedge-trimmers. PPE can include steel-toe caped boots, goggles, ear-defenders, gloves and hard hats. Always consult an expert if you are unsure what you should be wearing for a job.