The
missed beans will be planted out next year.
Our vegetable patch is looking a bit sorry for itself at the
moment. Like most years the runner beans
seem to just shrivel up in the cold wind and those that I missed have produced
the most lovely beans which I might keep over to plant out next year. The courgettes have turned to liquid goo
ready for the slugs and snails to suck up.
The peas that we didn’t see to harvest have turned into bullets and the
mange tout are so stringy you could make rope out of the fibre, the dog is
enjoying them though. There are some
vegetables that are only just starting to come into their own and will
hopefully see the winter out and be the first crops we will be harvesting in
early spring. We haven’t got a lot to
overwinter as this is our first year of growing in the new place, but out of
them all its broccoli that come out on top for me because harvesting it indicates
the start of a new growing year. I like the taste too.
Most vegetable gardens can accommodate winter crops and a
bit of planning now will mean more self sufficiency in spring. Some vegetables,
such as Brussels sprouts, take up a lot of space for a long time but are still
well-worth the investment.
Planting
Choose an open site with free-draining soil as the winters
can waterlog even the driest spots. Mulch or lightly cultivate prior to sowing
or planting and enriched with organic material.
Our dog is enjoying the stringy mange tout
more than me.
You could also try planting a few veggies in containers;
less greedy feeders will do well. Planting potatoes in late summer should get
you a basket full for the Christmas dinner. If a greenhouse or polytunnel is
available, it can be used to over-winter some crops and start others off early.
However, heating greenhouses for year round harvests is rarely efficient. I
remember the staff at the Organic Centre in Rossinver telling me that a
polythene tunnel will grow all year round without the need for heat; it’s just
picking the right plants to grow that is important. It’s probably more
important for commercial growers to do this; I like the idea of giving the soil
a bit of a rest sometimes.
What to grow for
winter
Good disease
resistant crops could be broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, kale, leeks and
parsnips These are all hardy vegetables and will stand through the winter.
Leafy crops such as chard, parsley and rocket should also over-winter with a
little protection. Other crops such as carrots, onions, turnips and winter
squash can also be grown to enjoy in winter if stored , which is an art in
itself.
When to sow
vegetables for winter harvests
Spring and summer
Sow hardy winter vegetables such as sprouting broccoli,
Brussels sprouts, kale, winter cabbage and leeks in late spring or early summer
as they take several months to reach maturity. They stand well through frosty
weather and can be harvested throughout the winter months.
Sow leafy crops such as chard, chicory and parsley in early
summer for autumn harvests that can last into winter if they are provided with
some fleece or cloche protection.
Late summer and
autumn
Sow corn salad, land cress and oriental salad leaves such as
komatsuna, mibuna, mizuna, mustard and rocket. These will provide
cut-and-come-again leaves through the autumn, and winter if covered with a
cloche, coldframe or fleece. It’s also a good time to be sowing green manures
such as clover or rye.. They are not
edible crops but useful for fixing nitrogen for next year and help to stop soil
erosion
Growing tips for a
Winter Harvest
It takes a little planning to have enough vegetables for
winter and I haven’t managed it in 30 years!
We don’t give up though..I have enlisted the help of the RHS for some
tips and advice.
·
Sow brassicas and leeks into a seedbed outside
or into seed trays, cell trays or pots indoors
·
Sow parsnips direct into the ground and be aware
they may take several weeks to germinate
·
Harden off seedlings raised in the greenhouse
thoroughly before planting them outside
·
Transplant seedlings to their final positions
when they have formed small, sturdy plants with two or four pairs of true
leaves (in the case of leeks, when they are pencil thick)
·
Sow salad plants direct into the ground in
summer in shallow drills that have been watered prior to sowing
·
In summer, use space wisely by sowing or
transplanting seedlings into ground vacated by early crops, such as broad beans
or early potatoes
·
Keep plants well-watered
·
Hoe between rows regularly to keep them free of
weeds
·
Cover salads and leafy plants with cloches for
protection before the frosts
Problems
As with any vegetable growing, there are a number of things
that can go wrong, and I should know!
·
Some leafy crops are prone to bolting if they
experience stress
·
Cabbages will need protection from caterpillars
·
Broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cabbages are
prone to club root
·
Flea beetles are a common problem on oriental
salad leaves
·
Winter vegetables are often attacked by pigeons
and will need the protection of netting from autumn onwards
·
Slugs and snails are a major pest of seedlings
and leafy crops
·
Poor quality Brussels sprouts can be due to a
range of cultivation problems
·
Root vegetables are prone to splitting when
heavy rains follow drought
·
Cabbage whitefly can infest all brassicas, but
may be tolerated or treated with a range of sprays.
You
might be tempted to think that it’d be easier to go to the shops (or the
growing array of local organic market stalls setting up around the peninsula...
You’d be right!
But
it’s not all about being easy is it?
