It’s taken nearly a year but I have finally worked my way to
the top corner of the garden with my spade.
It’s not that the garden is large by any stretch of the imagination;
it’s just that I am extremely reluctant to pick up the spade. I have used the “No Dig” policy I have as an
excuse for so long but this work isn’t really digging, it’s pulling. The area
at the top of the garden that we have planted our vegetables in has a really
invasive (and as yet unidentified) shrub that spreads by runners. I got a few
of them out last year so we could get a start with planting but they are coming
back with vengeance. It’s not only the spade I am using; the mattock is coming
in handy too. The wall has also been
cleared of ivy and because it is south facing I am considering planting a fruit
tree to train against it in an espalier manner fastening the branches to the
wall.
I like the idea of a few fruit trees and bare rooted fruit
trees are in the shops now. They are a great way to build up your own orchard
(or couple of small trees depending on your garden) and they should all be less
than a few euro each.
Bare rooted is when the tree is sold without a pot or soil and
bought while the weather is still cold and the plants are dormant. As well as
saving money, you will often find a much wider selection of varieties and sizes
available as bare-rooted trees. Many wonderful types of apples, pears, plums and
other fruits can be found and as they are young they can be trained to fit the
area you have.
Timing
- The biggest stresses on a new fruit tree are usually below ground.
- Keep well watered in the first year
- Early to mid spring is a good time to plant the trees as they are just waking up. The ground is warming up in the sun. Avoid planting in a frost.
- If you miss the ideal window of time for your area but still want to plant this year, it’s worth paying more for container-grown plants. These will already have roots that have grown into the soil around them and as long as you don’t disturb these too much when planting, they’ll be ready to draw up moisture and nutrients during warmer weather.
Location
Fruit trees don’t like to be moved so it is important to get
the location right first time. Things to consider are:
Sun or Partial Shade:
Nearly all fruit trees require plenty of sun but by carefully scouring
catalogues you’ll find there are some less well-know varieties that are
tolerant of partial shade. Don’t just consider the ground, it’s the leaves that
need sun and this often opens up possibilities for otherwise unproductive areas.
Soil: Most will want free-draining soil,
enriched with compost. Avoid areas that regularly flood or higher ground that
dries out quickly.
Wind and Snow: Be aware of the direction of prevailing wind and any
large buildings nearby. A wall or fence may create a sheltered environment
perfect for heat-loving fruits, or it could funnel icy winds during winter.
Roofs can dump a ton of snow on an unsuspecting tree below, snapping its
branches. Observe your garden closely to choose the best spot.
Other Plants:
Trees are remarkably good at drawing up nutrients and water from the
surrounding area. Unless you’re using raised beds, remember that a nearby fruit
tree or bush may compete with your other plants.
The First Year for
Fruit Trees
Fruit trees always seem to be such strong, healthy plants
that we forget how vulnerable they are when first planted even if you follow
all of the planting advice available. During the first year, the tree can
easily die from not getting enough water or nutrients. Until the root system is
at least as large as the tree it supports, it is particularly vulnerable to
environmental stress. Regular watering a couple of times a week and keeping the
area weed free should help the tree to establish. I will leave you to make up
your minds about staking the tree. Some feel that it’s unnecessary to do it and
stops the roots developing, others feel it’s vital. If you don’t stake the tree keep an eye on it
to see it doesn’t wobble in the wind.
Finally, don’t forget to remove all blossoms from the tree
in the first year. Although it’s tempting to let some fruit develop, doing so
will again place more stress on the tree as it establishes and forgoing the
first year’s fruit will result in a much healthier tree and better harvest in
years to come.
