Radiant and bright. That’s the Kaffir lily, not me.
I was cleaning the windows the other day and was amazed at
how many spiders were nesting in the eves.
Maybe it’s just the fact that it’s autumn and that’s what spiders do,
but it might also the fact that I have hundreds of caterpillars climbing the
walls as the look for somewhere to cocoon themselves up and unwittingly finding
themselves being a food supply . I’m
being very selective and moving the spiders to pastures new as I wash, i don't want to add to the negative press they are getting, the
caterpillars are not getting the same level of attention though.
Talking of autumn things, I was in the beautiful Muff woods
this week and noticed the fungi and mushrooms are out in force, leaves are
starting to fall and I can’t fathom out if I should just be wearing a shirt,
jumper or a full overcoat. We start the days off cool and damp then it turns
hot in the sun then cool in the evenings.
This suits me as I can throw the clothes layers off and it certainly
suits the fungi, I have never seem such a variety as this year.
There are other types of plants that enjoy this type of
weather and one of them is a new addition to the garden. The Kaffir lily or “Schizostylis
coccinea” to give it its Latin name. I was given a clump of these autumn
flowering bulbs by my mother in law, all nicely wrapped up in newspaper and
ready for planting out just before their flowers came out. For now I have planted them into a pot until
I decide where in the garden they will go.
How to grow Kaffir
lily
The flowers remind me of crocosima, or montbretia as they
are also called. The iris type flowers
are pretty though and in the evening the flowers close and nod in the breeze. The
plants originate from South Africa and enjoy warm wet summers and cold and dry
winters so should be at home here.
There are many forms of Schizostylis coccinea. The copper-red
'Major' is the most readily available and a very good performer. There is a
pure white form, 'Alba', which has narrower petals. You might see some other
types in the garden centres from time to time.
Growing tips
They do survive in dry gardens, but they look miserable and
flower poorly, if at all. It is possible to improve flowering by mulching them
with a thick layer of gravel in spring after heavy rain. This will preserve
moisture and allow them to flower. The gravel also filters winter rainfall. The
frosts will kill off the top growth but they will return next year. If you have
heavy clay, add lots of grit and put them in a sheltered position against a
wall.
The kaffir lily will look good grown on their own, rather
like nerines, and could be used along a sunny path or in a border. Position
them away from the edge as they tumble forward. Or use them in front of
deciduous shrubs and trees because the warm red or clear pink flowers, held
well above the foliage, add a touch of freshness just as the leaves fall.
Buying Bulbs
As this week’s article reads like an actual gardening page,
I’ll continue with another topic of the month- buying bulbs for spring and
summer flowers. The shops are full of
different varieties for every type of garden. Lilies, gladioli, daffs, tulips,
muscari, anemone, allium, the list is long.
Some bulbs, (especially if you are like me and only buy them
when they are reduced to sell) will be a bit dehydrated and in need of a bit of
care before planting out.
Amaryllis or lily-of-the-valley, will need soaking before planting to give them a head
start. Other bulbs, when you get them out of the packs, need to be checked over
before planting.
Problems
There aren’t many
problems to watch out for with shop bought bulbs, apart from checking that the
bulbs are healthy to start with. However if you have them stored, pests to look
out for include slugs, snails, squirrels (particularly with tulips and crocus)
and diseases such as daffodil viruses, grey mould in snowdrops, narcissus basal
rot, tulip fire and tulip viruses. Gently squeeze the bulb. If it is
mushy or collapses, the bulb is dead. If the bulb is firm beneath your fingers,
it's still alive. . Discard any that
show signs of disease and rot.
Rehydrate a Dried
Flower Bulb
If the bulbs feel a bit dry, fill a container with tepid
water and remove any loose husks or dirt from the bulbs. If the bulbs have
reproduced, gently pull the small bulbs away from the parent. They should
separate easily.
Place the flower bulbs in the water. Soak for three to four
hours. You can also soak overnight, but don't leave bulbs in water more than
eight hours or they will absorb too much water and rot. Plant the bulbs in
well-drained soil roughly twice as deep as the bulb is long. Plant as soon as possible after you get
them.
