Growing Ginger and Sweet Potatoes

I have finally given up on my Luffas this year. The vigorous climbing plants produced a lot of leaves and took over half of the polytunnel but have now succumbed to mould so there’s no saving them. I had one finger sized luffa but that’s gone all soft and squidgy too. The earwigs have the upper hand this year, arrogantly looking at me with their pincers raised and ready for action. Next year I’ll get one step ahead of them.  Every year I like to try something new, sometimes I get a crop, sometimes I don’t. Next year I will be growing two plants that I am sure the wiggies won’t find as they are both root crops. My first is ginger.

Growing Ginger

Ginger root is available from a lot of shops and I will be taking a few pieces that have small growing tips or nodes on them. It’s advisable to get organic roots that haven’t been sprayed to stop them sprouting so if I can’t find any I might need to buy root specially produced from a grower as the results might be better. Whichever I get it’ll just be a case of planting them in shallow pots (the roots grow sideways) and either having them in the house on the windowsill or in the tunnel. They like it warm, frost free, away from strong winds  and not too sunny so the early ones will be fine on my windowsill for now and it’ll be an excuse for me to tell people to close the back door when they come in.

 Sweet pototoes

My next new crop might need a bit more attention put on it.  For years now I have been wanting to grow sweet potatoes but thought they were too fragile to grow in Ireland. I really don’t think they are and I am sure I can get a bucket full for next year. 

How to grow sweet potatoes

Sweet potatoes grow in popularity every year. They are a delicious addition to the kitchen garden and not too difficult to grow.  There are actually a lot of varieties to choose from but the supermarkets tend to give us the same ones.  I’m going to be growing mine from shop bought ones again, carefully choosing ones that have been grown without chemicals and hopefully without growth inhibitors.

Sweet potatoes are traditionally grown in warmer climates but I’m not going to let the deter me although if they don’t work I’ll be buying thet hardier types from the growers.

What are sweet potatoes?

Despite its name the sweet potato is not a potato at all. This tasty root vegetable is a member of the Ipomoea family; the same genus as the popular flowering climber ‘Morning Glory’. You will certainly notice the family resemblance from their pretty trumpet shaped flowers and vigorous spreading growth habit. The leaves and tips of young shoots can be cooked as a spinach substitute so they are pretty versatile.

Sweet potato slips

Sweet potatoes are grown slightly differently to our regular spuds. Unlike normal potatoes, sweet ones are grown from ‘slips’. These are the long shoots that have been removed from ‘chitted’ sweet potato tubers. ‘Slips’ either have no roots or very little ones. The roots will grow once the ‘slip’ has been planted. When you buy from growers you will get the bare rooted slips wrapped up in paper. They will be very limp but perk up again after being in water overnight. You could even start rooting them in the water too, which is what I am planning to do.

Sweet potato plants are not hardy so I will grow them on in the windowsill or tunnel for a few weeks until they are established. Warm, humid conditions will quickly encourage the slips to produce roots so I will be better to be patient and leave the growing until the frost have gone next spring. They can be planted out in containers to grow on in the tunnel.

The long stems need plenty of space as they have a vigorous growth habit. In milder areas or sheltered spots in the garden they are well worth trying outdoors, planted through a sheet of black polythene to warm the soil and suppress weed growth. They could be covered with fleece or plastic cloches - you’ll be amazed the difference that this will make to the temperature.

The plants prefer an acid or neutral soil so we are ideally suited here for growing them.  They will go well with my other plants I plan to grow in the future, tea and tobacco.

Myth Busting Again

 Tomatoes lose their flavour on the fridge.

Houseplants

I’ve been myth busting again this week. Not content with clarifying that the amount of lobes a pepper has decides its gender, that copper slug traps are useless, Epsom salts doesn’t stop blossom end rot, there’s no such thing as killer ladybirds and the moon is always the same size in the sky in any one night. I have found another thing for me to get my teeth into. It’s the myth that houseplants purify the air. It apparently comes from a misinterpreted NASA study about plants.

Reported Facts

These are what are generally reported as facts.

1) Plants clean 90% of chemicals in 24 hours

2) Use 1 plant per 100 sq feet of home for most effective air purification

3) The best 10, 15, 17 or 20 plants are listed by name

It is all wrong.

The NASA study showed that plants remove a small amount of certain chemicals from the air. A 1500 sq ft home would need around 400 large plants to remove most of the tested chemicals, enough to turn the house into a jungle.

Reports that list the best plants for the job are probably not valid lists. The microbes in the soil of the pot are more efficient at removing chemicals than the plants themselves.

It all boils down to journalists cherry picking the data that suits their story. Most have probably just reported what previous reporters other bloggers said, just like any other news story then?

Maybe the actual health values are just the plants themselves. Sitting there motionless in their posts as the busy world goes by could be just the focus wee need for a few minutes (or seconds) reflection on the day. Also I think tending the plants can be restful and meditative – as long as we are not having to pick up shriveled leaves from behind the sofa.

Tomatoes in the fridge

Do you keep eggs in the fridge or out in the kitchen? Some folk say that eggs last longer at room temperature and like in our house, the poor eggs get moved from the worktops to the fridge depending on who believes what.  But have you ever thought that keeping tomatoes in the fridge might not be a good idea either? Maybe it’s both eggs and tomatoes that should stay at room temperature. Here’s why:

Chilling a tomato in the fridge will keep it looking fresh for a longer period of time than if you left it on the counter, but it will also drain all that earthy, slightly grassy, distinctive tomato taste right out of the fruit. 

Scientists and foodies have known for some time that cooling tomatoes is detrimental to their flavour, but they were not exactly sure why — until now.

According to new a study in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, when a tomato’s environment drops below 68 degrees, the genes responsible for making it taste like a tomato get turned off.

The tomato gets cold and tells itself to stop making aroma compounds and the change is irreversible as the chemical changes have taken place.

Tomatoes taste the way they do because of a combination of sugars, acids and a collection of chemicals that scientists call volatile compounds or aroma compounds. Aroma compounds are what you smell, and they make up the wonderful part of the flavour.

 The sugars and acids are what you taste on the tongue, but there would be no excitement to the flavour without the aroma compounds. Now that this is known it probably won’t be long until a variety is developed to cope with both live in and out of the fridge and be hardy enough to cope in all temperatures. Maybe we aren’t too far away from frost hardy ones too.

Evergreen Shrubs (and some pretty bark)

Trees are looking fabulous at the moment. So much so that we can often forget there are some equally bright and glorious shrubs we can include in the garden. I’ve sorted through a few of my favourites here. There would be more but I ran out of space.

My top 14 (mostly) evergreen shrubs and trees to bring colour to your garden this winter

Acacia

With attractive feathery, ferny leaves it is a mass of bright yellow, sweetly scented puffball flowers from late winter onwards. Although tough trees acacias are frost sensitive so grow in your most sheltered spot in colder areas. Flowers are great for cutting and brightening up the house indoors too.

Camellia x williamsii 'Donation'

A truly gorgeous shrub and one of the most popular camellias with its large, showy rose-pink flowers with golden stamens. These appear prolifically in late winter and last well until spring when they helpfully drop from the plant, rather than fading and remaining on the plant like others in their family. Like all camellias 'Donation' needs ericaceous soil but is very happy grown in a pot.

Cornus

I hear you shouting “This isn’t an evergreen!” I hear you but wanted to include it anyway as it’s a delight to see in winter. This is a small woody shrub grown for its colourful bare stems in winter. Look for C. alba sibirica for red stems and C. sericea ‘Flaviramea’ for yellow bark. They need chopping back annually for the best colour effect.

Daphne

A handsome evergreen shrub that will fill a small garden with its enchanting scent. Beautiful clusters of flowers open in midwinter among fetching, dark green leaves edged in gold and once the flowers fade they are followed by scarlet berries. Plant it at the front of a border so you don't miss its fragrance or subtle colour.

Euonymus fortunei

A winter garden essential this handsome little shrub is as popular as ever and for good reason. Dark green leaves have shining white margins, which take on a pink glow when the temperatures drop in autumn and winter. Small creamy flowers appear in summer. Unfussy and happy in sun and shade it makes a great low hedge or border shrub.

Garrya elliptica

With wavy, leathery leaves it is a mass of long, pendent, silky-green catkins throughout the winter and is stunning on a frosty morning when the silvery catkins contrast beautifully with the deep green leaves. It is frost hardy and will need protection through the winter in colder areas so the warmer the wall you can give it the better.

Heather: Winter-flowering heather is a brilliant plant for low-growing texture. It also looks fantastic in pots. It comes with pink, white and purple flowers.

Ilex aquifolium 'Gold Flash'

An ivy with stunning, slender, variegated foliage in rich green and bright yellow and lime. Scarlet berries appear in autumn but gather branches quickly for Christmas as the birds love them. All hollies are either male or female and will only produce berries if one of each is nearby so grow more than one to ensure fruit.

Mahonia x media 'Charity'

Holly shaped leaves and vivid yellow flowers which last from mid-autumn right up until spring. Sweetly scented they are a great source of late nectar for foraging bees and other insects and are followed by shiny black berries that birds love too. Happy in a shady spot it will brighten the back of a border beautifully.

Sarcococca confusa

This shrub has neat, glossy green leaves and sweet, vanilla scented white flowers, Sarcococca confusa has a dense compact habit and is ideal in containers, by the front door or at the edge of pathways - anywhere where its glorious fragrance can be appreciated.

Skimmia

A lovely shrub which has prolific wine-red buds bringing colour and interest throughout autumn. These are followed by striking cones of white flowers, which persist through winter. Skimmia japonica 'Rubella' is a male plant, which means it won't produce berries but will promote berries on any other female skimmias you may have in your garden. A slow grower it is ideal for the front of a border or a cheery winter pot.

Viburnum tinus

This much-loved shrub has polished leaves and clusters of rose tinted buds from autumn onwards, which burst into flat heads of white, starry flowers. Gently fragranced, these last all through winter and are followed by distinctive, metallic-blue berries when they fade. Look out for the compact variety 'Eve Price', the perfect centrepiece to a winter pot and for evergreen varieties like V. tinus and V. burkwoodii. Viburnum x bodnantense ‘Dawn’ is also brilliant with strongly scented pink flowers.

Witch hazel

Witch hazel is grown for the wiry flowers it bears along the branches. Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Diane’ has red flowers, ‘Jelena’ is coppery coloured and ‘Pallida’ is best for yellow.

Winter jasmine

 (jasminum nudiflorum) is a climbing plant with yellow star-shaped leaves that can be highly fragrant. One of the sweetest smells in the winter garden. All of these shrubs will be available locally and are pretty hardy and tolerant of our climate.

Compost and Mulch - Do We Know the Difference?

Differences

Do we know the difference between compost and mulch?

I admit that I get a bit confused which is which as definitions can be very vague. I tend to use them both in the same way, just putting them on top of the soil and letting the worms do the work.

There is a difference though and I was chatting to Rosie Harding this week who is a bit of an expert in the field.  Rosie and her husband Peter have regenerated a piece of degraded land in Goa, India, into an abundant and productive kitchen garden and food forest. I asked her how they differentiate between mulch and compost and why it’s an important part of their garden.

What is Compost?

“Compost is decomposed organic material”, Rosie tells me. “It is person made, commonly using a mix of kitchen scraps and wet and dry garden leaves, grasses and trimmings. When it is ready it is a deep dark brown, almost black, feels moist and crumbly to touch, and does not smell bad, but has an appealing earthy smell.

At its simplest, compost is a pile of organic matter that will decompose by itself in as little as 18 days but can take many months, depending on the content and season. At its most organised, it is a recipe blend of wet and dry materials, a specific ratio of nitrogen and carbon.

When organic matter decomposes naturally on the forest floor in nature, it is called humus.

Benefits of compost:

• Increases the soil’s ability to both hold moisture and drain better all at the same time.
• Nourishes your plants.
• Adds important microorganisms and fungi to the soil (which are part of an important and often overlooked soil foodweb that is actually what is feeding your plants)
• Improves soil texture.
• Has insulating qualities against heat and cold.
• Helps to break down the mineral elements of your soil (ie pebbles) and contributes to making those nutrients available to the plants.
• Compost can be used to make suitable potting mix to germinate seeds.
• It can be easily side-dressed into the soil next to a plant that may require a “nutrition boost”.

What is Mulch?

“It is any type of material that is spread or laid over the surface of the soil as a protective covering. It can be in the form of living mulch, growing in and over the ground, or a layer of mulch material on top of the soil, for example dry leaves or straw.

Benefits:

• A thick layer (think at least 2 to 3 inches) of dry leaves or straw will immediately cut your watering requirements by 50%, from Day one.
• Protects the soil underneath from the harsh sun and lashing rain.
• Suppresses weeds.
• Reduces erosion.
• Provides habitat to frogs, lizards and other garden friends.
• As it breaks down, it provides food to the microorganisms & fungi already present in the soil.
• In the case of living mulches, which can also be in the form of “green manures”, the roots are also benefiting the soil, helping with aeration, and with both drainage and moisture retention equally.

Why the confusion? “You may find references of compost being used as mulch, especially in Ireland as it is a temperate climate. Here in the tropics a protective layer of mulch is really important for retaining soil and protecting it from the elements such as scorching heat and torrential rain.

A common mistake is to dig mulch into the soil, instead of placing it on top of the soil. This will cause a temporary nitrogen deficiency as the nitrogen in the soil is used up breaking down the carbon of the un-decomposed or only partially decomposed mulch.

A tip for those with smaller spaces in urban and suburban areas, including those with potted and terrace gardens. When people in these areas ask what the best thing that they can do for their soil is, the answer is always Mulch, Mulch, Mulch.

Given the huge quantity of leaves that are burnt or otherwise disposed of every year as part of “tidying” homes and gardens, it’s possible to rapidly collect large quantities of mulch. As much as you may need for a few pots, and way more for those that can use even larger quantities. And you can never have too much mulch. Mulch is absorbed extremely quickly into soils that are poor in organic material, and over time, as the organic material builds up, the rate slows. If ever you really do get your hands on “too much mulch”, then you can compost it.” Rosie concludes. see their page here

As we are on the subject of differences, did you know these too?

Briefly

Differences: Hay and Straw

Hay is a crop that is grown specifically for the purpose of creating hay, while straw is a byproduct of different kinds of crops. Hay is geared toward being a nutrient-rich food for livestock, while straw is more often used for bedding instead of food. Straw also has a wide variety of uses, for everything from a compost pile to an energy source

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Differences: Cacti and Succulents

What define true cacti are areoles. Areoles are what spines, spines, branches and flowers may sprout from, and all cacti have them, while succulents don’t. Areoles are not hard to find – they usually look like small, fluffy, cotton like lumps on the body of the cactus.

So, the next time you look at a succulent, look to see if they have areoles. Then you will know for certain that it is a cactus, or not. 

Remember though, there are exceptions to every rule.