Boomtree Bees

 Boomtree Bee house

I was at Boomtree Bees in Buncrana this week chatting to the inspirational Michiel Verspuij who is changing the way we look at beekeeping. 

Intensive farming of bees in traditional hives has a myriad of problems in the same way anything does when we try to control nature. Michael’s approach is more about creating a natural and welcoming habitat for the bees that is self-sustaining and virtually maintenance free. Honey can still be harvested but it isn’t the main incentive for keeping the bees, it’s more to ensure that bees thrive and carry on doing the pollinating of flowers

These bee hives are made from large fallen tree logs and hollowed out to make room for the colony of bees, some of them seven feet tall and weighing up to 200kg. Their waterproof roofs are made from thatch and inside has been hollowed out by hand. Different wood can be used, some of the hardwoods can last up to 50 years and even the softwoods can last up to twenty.  Each one is unique and handmade making them a lovely addition in the garden or public area. Michiel is currently working closely with the local Council who are donating their fallen trees to the initiative. Michiel is currently working on a large laburnum log that fell outside of the library in Buncrana. This will eventually be found a home locally and given back to the community.

Origins

The idea stems from cultivating bees over a thousand years ago. The honey was extracted from the hives by physically climbing the tree, which had its problems so the hives were then cut from the tree and placed on the ground for easy access. From here we got to the modern method of beekeeping. Michiel has gone full circle back to the beginning of beekeeping where the beekeeper makes a hive that suits the bees, or they do not come. A system where the beekeeper is required to give up control and complexity, and evolution is once again determined by the bees and nature.

The hives

In this tree hive management system, the top one third is respected and always left undisturbed for raising brood and for winter stores. If there is any spare honey it is harvested from the bottom two thirds of the hive. Typically 10 -15kg is harvested in a normal year. The hives are opened just twice a year: once in spring to check if the hive is populated, and then in the autumn for the honey harvest. This infrequent opening maintains the medicinal hive atmosphere.

Low Maintenance

The hives are not treated for mites with acid washes or pesticides and remain healthy. Interestingly, many beekeepers in the West, often referred to as ‘natural beekeepers’, are similarly discovering that bees will slowly adjust to mites and diseases. They can only do so if they are left to manage themselves, i.e. they are rarely disturbed, their winter honey stores are left intact, and they are not fed sugar, which weakens the bees’ immunity 

Michail has a mission to help with the conservation and rewilding of the honeybee. He runs workshops on site, in schools and other venues and aims to create a more sustainable way of beekeeping and conservation, he can also collect your bee swarms and re-home them.

 If you are interested in anything bee related check out Boomtree Bees on Facebook or go to the website boomtreebees.com or better still pay him a visit, it’s an enlightening experience.

If you would prefer to see what Micheil is doing you can see Boomtree Bees along with other environmental groups at the Environmental Showcase 2017 event at the Regional Cultural Centre in Letterkenny later this month.

Environmental Showcase 2017

On October 14th at the Regional Cultural Centre in Letterkenny , Environment groups across Donegal will come together to display their work . This event, promoted by Joanne Lindsey Butler from Ourganics will take place as part of the annual Social Inclusion Week and is being hosted by the Environmental Pillar of the Public Participation Network. 

“The overall aim of the showcase event is to highlight some of the great work being done by voluntary groups across the county” says Mary Clyde, Public Participation Network Facilitator.

“This showcase will be about promoting the positive environmental actions that are being done and will allow us to share ideas, find out what works and in some cases what doesn’t work and most importantly how we can build on the great work already being done.”

It’s not too late to participate. Mary adds, “We are keen to hear from all types of groups including schools, tidy town groups, local environmental groups, development committees, resident associations and of course special interest groups.  This is a real opportunity for the environment sector to shine and for people to get involved in positive action”. 

Guest speakers include ecologist Ralph Sheppard and environmentalist Duncan Stewart .

For more information check out the Environmental Networks Facebook page @DonegalEN or Boomtree Bees page.

Cacti Care

My cacti plants have been neglected this year. And they love it. I did repot them at the beginning of the season, then put them on a shelf in the tunnel and promptly forgot about them. Their only water source was condensation and the odd over spray from the tomatoes. A few of them are flowering as well which is always pleasing to see.

Cacti

Cacti are classic examples of plants that have evolved to grow in environments where water is scarce for large parts of the year. Most of the varieties don’t have leaves but swollen stems. These stems contain water-storage tissues and a thick waterproof skin, usually covered with a waxy layer to help prevent water loss.  Cacti can have extensive root systems, spreading just below the soil surface, so that they can absorb even the relatively small amounts of water that moisten the soil surface during light showers of rain, which isn’t much help to them in my small pots. To help them store water in the occasional time I give them water, the fluted stems with ribs expand and contract without damage to the surface tissues.

Cacti also have evolved to use the stems as the main method of photosynthesis  rather than using leaves. 

In place of leaves, cacti have areas where spikes come out (areoles). These are like buds and they are arranged regularly along the ribs of the stem. They produce spines which help to protect the stems from being eaten. In some cacti that I have the spines are so dense that they almost completely obscure the underlying stems, shielding the stems from intense sunlight and preventing the plant from overheating.

Cacti as Houseplants

Cacti make great houseplants and makes a big impact to a room. 

What to look for when buying cacti

• Assess the size where the plant will be going. Larger plants generally cost more.
• Check that the cacti are free of mealybug on both the plant itself and the root system. With its woolly white layer of wax, it’s one of the most common pests on cacti and difficult to deal with.
• Spider mite (eight-legged insects that cover the plant in a fine and dense web), aphids, brown scale and scale insects or thrips can also occur.
• Check for damage, and ensure that the roots are in good condition. If the plants have been left in wet soil for an extended period, they may have rotted ‘from the pot’. This can also be caused by fungi and bacteria. The green part, the actual stem, will then feel soft and could be discoloured.

Choice of cacti

Many cacti are sold in mixed trays, particularly the smaller sizes. The plants I have now came from a job lot on e-bay of bare rooted plants and was very happy with the quality. I have tried growing the plants from seed but it takes a long time and is pretty fiddly. I had about fifteen different types in the bundle.

If you have friends with older cacti you will find they have small offsets. These can be pulled off and planted up after leaving to dry for a day or two.

Succulent Euphorbia species closely resemble cacti and are often placed in the same product group. It’s easy to spot the difference. On Euphorbia the spikes and thorns grow directly out of the green body of the plant, whilst on cacti they grow out of the areolae.

Care tips

Cacti are easy to care for. In order to get the plant to flower successfully every year, it’s best to give it more water in the summer and less in the winter. This is partly dependent on the species and the size of the plant.

• Too much water is never good; it’s best to allow the soil to dry out before watering again.
• A cactus appreciates a warm and sunny spot in the summer; it can even go outdoors on a patio or balcony. The position should be cooler and light in the winter. This rest period in the winter helps the cactus to flower in the spring.
• If the plant needs to be repotted, use a fairly impoverished soil. Special cactus soil is available for this.
• Place the plants in a safe place if there are children or pets around.

Autumn Flowers and Climbing Ladders

Errigal?,no thanks... 

I’ve been cleaning the guttering this week. Well, more accurately I’ve been watching a very agile, capable young lad go up a ladder and clear them out on my behalf.  I’m not very good with ladders, it’s OK getting up them but it’s coming down I have bother with. It all started when I was a young lad (cue a flashback wave) my mother took me to a large lighthouse for a pleasurable day uot. I got half way up the sweeping spiral staircase and then just froze. The rest of the group went ahead to see the joys of huge pieces of cut glass dissipating the light over the sea whilst I huddled in a ball on the 200^th stone step waiting for some company. (Cue another wavy flashback)

My other memorable time going up heights was the time I worked in a sand quarry. I thought to get over being scared of heights I would climb the vertical ladder up to the top of a 100 foot silo. “That’ll sort me out” I thought.

 It was a cold clear morning when I set foot on the cold steel and eventually made my way to the top. It took a while with lots of stops but I got there and climbed on the flat roof. As I mentioned earlier, it’s getting back on the ladder that’s the problem, I just couldn’t do it. Three hours I sat up on the top of that silo. It seemed like three weeks.

Eventually because of the cold, I plucked up the courage to dangle my legs over and slowly made my way down to the ground, one slow rung of the ladder at a time. I was under the impressing that facing your fears was a good thing, but as it turns out, not always. 

My latest wobble on a high place was climbing Errigal. I managed to get to the first peak but couldn’t for the life of me step on the narrow path to get to the second one. try as I might all I could see was the lake below and nothing to stop me falling into it. I wasn’t really a good role model for the children (who managed to take no notice of me and get to the other side) at least I can teach them not to be scared of spiders.

Anyway, that’s why I am not cleaning the leaves out of the guttering. It’s far too jarring on my nerves. 

It’s pretty early do be doing this type of job as there aren’t many leaves falling just yet but the lad was also fixing and replacing a few  tiles on the roof that had either broken or dropped off this year so anytime is a good time just to check.

Growing for Showing

This is the time of year that keen vegetable and flower growers make their way to the summer shows in the hope of winning a rosette or cup for “Best in Show” I had my moment of glory earlier in the spring when I won the “Best Air plant Display” in our local show (the only entrant if you recall) but at this time of year it’s huge carrots, onions and leeks, perfectly formed courgettes and longest beans. Vases are full of gladioli, dahlias, antirrhinums, sweet peas and asters and the judges take their role very seriously to keep up the high standards. I don’t have anything of show quality in my own garden. I was reading an article recently saying the broad beans have finished which made me realise I haven’t even harvested mine yet as they are hiding behind the runner beans.  They will probably be very tough and certainly not good enough to show, so I’ll just give them a good boiling.

Autumn Flowers

It’s not all about growing for showing, we can enjoy many beautiful swathes of colour in the garden for the next couple of months. Here

Asters and Michaelmas Daisies

Ice Plant (Sedum spectabile and other varieties)

• Alstroemeria
• Bergamot Japanese Anemones
• Carex
• Cranesbill (Hardy Geranium)
• Dahlias
• Echinacea
• Eupatorium maculatum ‘Atropurpureum’
• Ornamental Grasses
• Monk’s hood (Aconitum carmichaelii)
• Pennisetum varieties
• Prairie Daisy
• Verbena

Planning and Planting Tips

When planning your borders, choose a selection of plants that flower at different times through the year so there’s always something colourful to enjoy.

Plant taller growing autumn flowering varieties behind low growing summer ones so they’ll grow up above them once summer displays fade away.

A small group of, say, three plants of one variety often looks more impressive than choosing three different things.

Front Garden Ideas

Most people living around me have small front gardens. For this reason it’s always a pleasure walking to the local shops or to nearby friends and relations.  I’d say most of the gardens are no more than 25-50 square metres a piece but it’s amazing just how much variation there is in each garden. I’m always hanging my nose over fences to have a look at the attention to detail, so much so that progress can be very slow getting anywhere. If you think about it, front gardens are the only gardens you go into when the weather is bad and differ greatly from the rear gardens which are made for (in the most part) rest and relaxation. When we head out to the car or go out of the house it’s usually the front garden we move though. For this reason it’s a good idea to pay a bit of attention to the finer details.

Five Suggestions

I’ve thought of five suggestions to get the most out of the front gardens. 

Complement the street scene. Most roads have a look and if you work with the surroundings this can give the garden a feeling of greater space. Low key and formal would work well for easy care.

Symmetry and Structure. Well defined flower beds, straight lines and solid planting could work and would be easier on the eye than attempting a wildflower meadow.

Structure. Keep well defined paths and edges and when the winter comes these could be the main feature, or the ‘bones ‘of the area. You wouldn’t want dead soggy plants on the pathways. Work with the house planting low shrubs under the windows and taller ones next to the wall areas. Work with the flow of the house not against it.

Layout. Show the way to your front door. A clean path up to some large planters besides the door would be good. You’ll find a wavy indirect path will only cause people (including yourself) to take a short cut.

Kerb Appeal. This is only an issue if you are thinking of selling the house, or using a room as an Airbnb. 

Plants to Add

Steady, practical and low maintenance is the order of the day when it comes to plants for the front garden.

Evergreens. Shrubs which stay green and have a good bulk all year round - are key to front gardens.

Climbers. Say no to ivy and climbing hydrangeas which have suckers and will find their way into the guttering, the mortar and, eventually, the windows. The climbers that are less likely to damage your house are ones which need support to grow up, so wisteria, clematis and roses would suit. A good tip is to grow them up sturdy trellis which is just hooked on to the wall. The trellis (and the climber with it) can be removed for cleaning or painting the walls. 

Trees. Remember they grow big! I always shiver when I see a monkey puzzle tree planted six feet from the front door. They grow over 100 feet eventually. Other trees can undermine the house foundations too.

Seasonal Changes

As you see the garden everyday planning the seasons will be fun.

Front gardens are perfect for pots. Some of my neighbours especially like putting out ornaments .

Keeping it low maintenance

I chose chamomile for my front garden this year as cutting the grass was a bit of an inconvenience. Maintaining the chamomile takes longer to do but it’s generally just hand weeding. You could try gravel or paving for an even lower maintenance option, generally the more hard landscaping you have the lower the maintenance will be. The easiest solution to look after is paving - bricks, slabs, driveway pavers - but it can prove to be expensive to put these over the whole of the front, even if your garden is small. So gravel is a decent halfway house.

A Few No-No’s

The place for expressing yourself in your garden is in the back garden. Keep the front garden simple. Don't make life more difficult that it needs be. If you need access to your windows make sure there's a path there and the plants aren't too big. Remember the straight paths too. Path materials and walls are pretty safe but maybe choose lower cost pots, plants and containers just in case they decide to go walkies.