House Plants

JUST PEEL AND REVEAL
I moved into my first parent free house when I was 18. It was a small 2 bedroomed terrace and hadn’t been modified since the early 1950’s. Details like multicoured carpets, a pink bathroom suite and dark brown vinyl wallpaper didn’t bother me much as I had more interesting issues to deal with like working and going out on the town.

There were two things I did in the house to brighten things up a bit. The first was to peel off the 25 year old wallpaper in the front room. It came off really easily and underneath there was some more brown paper from the 1940’s. It looked good to me, so that stayed on the walls for another four years until I moved out. The other improvement I made was to add houseplants. I had more than 50 different types around the house and sprayed them all regularly, which is probably the main reason the house also needed a damp course putting in.

FERNS
I particularly liked the ferns in the bathroom and had them hanging everywhere. They all enjoyed the shaded light and humidity that someone who had at least one bath a week could offer. I tried to get as many different types in there as I could without the pots slipping into the bath when I was having a soak and covering me with soil.

Here are a few you will find in the shops. They can all grow quite large in the wild, but will keep to a manageable size in a pot.
Boston Fern
Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata) are long-lived plants and the most popular for the bathroom. They can live for years with little attention.
Lemon Button Fern
Lemon button fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia) produces cute, golden-green fronds with rounded edges (that give them their button like appearance). It's an easy-to-grow fern that fits in well with a lot of decorating styles.

Maidenhair Fern
Among the most loved ferns, maidenhairs (Adiantum raddianum) offer fine-textured fronds on black stalks. The arching fronds emerge light green and darken a bit as they age.
Rabbit's-Foot Fern
(Humata tyermanii) This slow-growing fern offers dark green, fine textured fronds and fuzzy stems that creep down over the pot or along the soil. These stems are what give the fern its delightful common name.

Staghorn Fern
(Platycerium bifurcatum) Among the most spectacular of ferns, staghorns don't need to be grown in soil so you often see them mounted and grown on walls or posts.
Bird's Nest Fern
I found my plant in the road when I was coming home from work one day. It had been run over a few times but soon picked up in my fern sanctuary. It’s another favourite ofthe bathroom and mine lasted years. Bird’s nest fern (Asplenium nidus) is a slow-growing plant with bright green fronds that radiate from the centre of the plant, creating a vase or bird's nest shape.
Silver Brake Fern
(Pteris cretica)The crested fronds are almost spidery and bear a bright silvery stripe down the centre.
Kangaroo Paw Fern
(Microsorium diversifolium) This interesting fern offers shiny, dark green fronds in an unkempt mound reminiscent of Medusa's hair. Like rabbit's-foot fern, it bears creeping stems that may grow down the side of its container.

FRESH AIR TOO
Plants are just the thing to brighten the house up and freshen air. Check out the more common ones you can get locally, from the Peace Lily, Philodendrons, Dracaena varieties, Spider Plants, English Ivy, Ficus varieties, Bamboo, Aloe and Umbrella plants. They all filter impurities. My house must have had the cleanest air in the street.

There are big steps in architecture to bring greenery into heavily built up areas for this reason, not only into buildings, but on the outside of them too. The new ideas have been coined Vegitecture.


VEGITECTURE

Vegitecture or Vegetated Architecture is the use of organic materials such as plants as an element in construction. If done well it is an environmentally friendly way to add life to a city or heavily built up area. The Council Offices in Letterkenny made steps towards Vegitecture with their fabulous sedum roof, but it can go beyond that with more elaborate designs.





The Musée du Quai Branly in Paris has an 8,600 square foot vertical garden featuring more than 170 different plant species. The walls use a combination of sunshades, solar panels, and ventilation to catch water, making them self-sustaining ecosystems. The benefits aren’t just aesthetic; the walls reduce noise and provide natural cooling for the surrounding buildings because they soak up noise and heat, whereas concrete just reflects these.

The Irish weather is ideal to have these designs on buildings as we wouldn’t have to water them much, in fact rainwater can be harvested and stored and the correct plants will purify the air. There is also talk of a “vertical farm” where tenants of tall buildings grow their own fruit and vegetables on the walls and roofs. Looking at the images of proposed buildings and cities that will incorporate these ideas, they do remind me a bit of my old living room, except it would be outside, which would give the tenant more room to move around indoors.


NOT NEW
The idea isn’t new though. I used to deliver papers to a wooden house with a grass roof, which always used to amaze me, especially when they put the goat up there to keep the grass down. The living architecture idea goes back even further than my paper round in the 1970’s. There’s a well known Irish building that blends into the countryside perfectly. It was built at a time when there was only stone, mud and grass and is 600 years older than the pyramids. It’s Newgrange in the Boyne Valley with it’s grass roof, built in 3200BC and it hasn’t moved an inch since….I think we’ll see more on Vegitecture over the coming years, lack of space will soon be no excuse for not growing your own food.

IT'S IN THE DETAIL

Photo: This fungi is growing in an area no larger than an egg box. Its proportions are perfect and an inspiration to any garden design.

My mower is still in for repair. I don’t mind so much as it’s given me an opportunity to just sit in the garden without thinking that I should be working (although the hedges do need trimming back).

I’ve decided to make good use of the sunshine and not content with the rather uncomfortable garden chairs, I have dragged a full sized mattress outside and plonked it down on decking and added a few large fluffy pillows. It’s being in bed and getting a suntan at the same time….bliss. Now I can look up into the sky watching the clouds roll by and totally ignore the hedges and anything else that is deciding to let it’s hair down and run wild.

RUNNING WILD
Talking of running wild, my lads break my blissful avoidance by jumping on top of me and letting me know of some bright red fungi that’s popped up overnight in the undergrowth. As comfortable as I am, I can’t miss an opportunity for taking a few pictures, so I drag myself up out of bed and grab the camera.

Children have a knack of finding things that as adults we are overlook. Children tend to know every inch of their garden and beyond. As a youngster I had a very exciting playground as our garden backed onto an old disused sand quarry. Everything was there to keep a lad interested all year. In summer we would build rafts on the small lakes that appeared in the hollows, one so deep that there was a rumour about it being bottomless. There were sheer sandstone cliff faces where you could climb, carve your name in and jump off and land on the soft slopes below. Hidden to most people was a disused train tunnel that stretched for half a mile underground and took you to another part of the quarry. This was magical when walking through the darkness to the distant light, you felt as though you were being taken to another world. It was our Narnia wardrobe. We didn’t notice the rats. I spent most of my spare time in the quarry and knew every square centimetre, from where the frogs were in the summer to the best places to sledge when the snow came in winter. Luckily for her, my mum knew nothing about my escapades.

FUNGI
We are at the fungi. It’s very impressive. I take a couple of snaps and look around for more; it’s the right time of year after all. In a dead tree base I see some really small white toadstools. They are tiny and the whole micro climate they are in is no bigger than an egg carton, but looking at it close up it could be a contender for the best designed garden at Chelsea or Bloom. Everything is perfect; all of the small plants have found their ideal growing places. I take the picture and put a red rowan berry in it to get a feeling of size and perspective. In doing so though I ruined the effect. I meddled with nature. All you can see is the berry out of proportion. I take it out and leave the perfect design as I found it.



DETAIL
Noticing small details like this is a real treat. When we have small children visiting and they are bored and restless, Julie will take them outside where they immediately drop all whining. Younglings (as my eldest son calls them) will always find something to fascinate them. A ladybird to look at, buttercups to hold under their chins to see if they like butter, making daisy chains or sucking the nectar out of fuchsia flowers. They can spot beetles at twenty paces and find all the best hiding places. It doesn’t take much to capture a child’s imagination; being outside is enough. There is so much drama and beauty in a garden. The spider’s webs have been so beautiful in these misty mornings. As I stop to admire one, I notice a spider spinning her web. A damselfly interrupts her work getting trapped in the sticky threads. An epic battle ensues and just when the spider defeats the fly, seemingly winning her breakfast, another spider from a nearby web, who had been biding her time, moves in and does battle ending up victorious.

SMALL TREASURES
A back yard can have as many treasures as a big garden. A window box with parsley to munch, dandelions coming up through a crack in the concrete, little red spiders running along a sunny wall. We often add a few playthings to a garden to encourage children out. A football is a standard for boys but again as an adult we don’t really know what will capture the imagination. Think of Christmas when a child would rather play with the box the present came in. A bucket full of water and a few sticks and stones or piece of chalk to mark out a hopscotch game is often enough for a child to lose themselves in play.

One thing’s for sure, whether the grass is long or short, whether the hedges are neat and tidy, children won’t see work to do; they will see adventure.

Late summer

Hosta’s divide easily, you might have to tackle the big ones with a spade though

DIVIDING PERENNIALS

I don’t talk about perennial plants much. It’s not that I don’t like them, far from it; I think that they are a beautiful addition to any garden. It’s just that we don’t have many in our own garden. We have an Astilbe hiding in a very dry area underneath a conifer, which is probably about the worst place for it as they like very moist soil, and apart from a few herbs like lemon balm, we have a few large daisies that have been pot bound in a fish box by the shed for the last two years.

We have mainly shrubs in the garden with no herbaceous borders and very little bare soil, so that means no weeding. I bought two very good hoe’s from John and Mary in Malin at the beginning of the season and they are still in the shed with their wrappers on…. that’s the way I like it.

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS
A friend of mine asked me to check out their perennial patch this week to seeabout giving it a facelift. The bed was planted about seven years ago and things are looking a bit tired.

Ideally, perennials should be lifted, divided and replanted every three to five years, so it’s time for some work to be done on their plants to keep them in good shape and colour. The rewards will be healthy, vigorous growth and a crop of new plants to expand their planting scheme. I can’t resist digging up some Jacob’s ladders and hosta’s to demonstrate the different kinds of roots….


WHY DIVIDE?
There are a few good reasons to divide your perennial plants:

· Clumps have started to die out in the middle. The classic “doughnut” shape with an empty hole in the centre is a sure sign that a perennial clump needs attention.
· Flowering performance has declined. The clump may have become congested, or the roots old and woody.
· Soil nutrients have been exhausted around the clump. Signs of this might be stunted growth, yellowish leaves or lack of bloom. Dividing and moving to a new location is a wise idea. Sometimes simply fertilizing the plant will make it smarten up.
· Perennial weeds like creeping buttercup or grass have infested the clumps. When this happens, usually the best approach is to dig up the entire clump and divide it, picking out every single piece of weed root that can be found.

Dividing established clumps can provide plenty of new plants for a new garden bed, or to share with friends and neighbours.


When to divide
Plants should be divided when they're dormant, in late autumn or early spring. Fleshy-rooted perennials, such as peonies, should be left until the end of their dormant season in late spring, before being divided. Their buds will begin to shoot, which will indicate the more vigorous areas of growth, and therefore the best way of dividing up the plant.


How to divide

· Lift the plant by loosening the surrounding soil, taking care not to damage the root system.
· Once lifted, shake off as much loose soil around the roots as possible and remove any dead leaves and stems with secatuers.
· Make sure all buds are visible before dividing.


Fibrous-rooted plants

· Place two hand forks back-to-back near the middle of the plant.
· Gently push the handles back and forth so that the prongs gradually tease the plant apart.
· Repeat the process with each portion to divide the plant into more sections, making sure each section has a healthy bud.
· Discard the old, woody growth from the centre of the plant.
· Some fibrous-rooted perennials, such as primula, form a loose crown of many stems so they can be pulled apart by hand without damaging the plant. You can also take off separate stems growing at the edge of the plant, just make sure each portion has its own roots.

The fibrous roots of the Jacob’s Ladder divide easily. Try not to get too carried away though as you could get hundreds of divisions.

Some common fibrous rooted plants include: Artemisia, Asters, Aquilegia, Golden Rod, Herbaceous Campanulas, Forget-me-not Herbaceous Geraniums, Meadowsweet, Perennial Spiraea, Perennial Sunflowers, Primroses and Yarrow.



Fleshy-rooted plants
Dig up the plant and with a sharp knife separate the woody crowns.

· Make sure that each new piece has strong roots and several bud growths.
· Plants with fleshy roots can be divided with a spade.
· Make sure the new shoots are visible before dividing.
· Trim each division with a knife, discarding any old, woody material and damaged growth.

Again if it’s an old big clump that's been in the ground for several years or more then throw away the centre part. Plants with fleshy Crowns include: Delphiniums, Lupins, Astilbe and Hosta.


Dividing rhizomes.
· Dig up and select young outer pieces.
· Use a sharp knife to separate the rhizomes.
· Select pieces that have at least one or two fans of leaves from the outside of the clump and discard the centre rhizomes.


Plants with rhizome roots include: Flag Iris, Lily of the valley and Orris Root.


Replanting
After the plants have been dug and divided there are a few steps that will need to be taken:

· Replant divisions as soon as possible, making sure that the roots don’t dry out. In general, divisions should be planted at the same depth as the original plant, leaving enough space between plants to develop.
· Ensure that roots are evenly spread out in the planting hole before gently firming the plant in.
· Add soil improvers such as well rotted manure or rich compost into the planting places.
· Water the base of each division immediately after planting, and keep the plants well watered while they settle in.


There are a few perennials that don’t respond well to being divided which include: Alyssums Candytuft Carnation, Delphinium, Euphorbia Foxgloves, Geraniums, Lavenders and the perennial Sweet pea amongst others.

Once you start to divide plants, you will get a feel for those that will do well when divided.

FUNGI IN THE GARDEN