Saturday, August 14, 2010

Armagh Visit

We’ve just returned from a very enjoyable visit to the historical town of Armagh. The town is enjoying a boost to the tourism trade this year by proudly hosting the ‘Earth from the Air’ photographic exhibition. This amazing display of aerial photography has travelled the world before arriving in Ireland, and Armagh was the city chosen to host this photographic portrait of the planet, which highlights issues about sustainable development.

Earth from the Air
‘Earth from the Air’, created by Yann Arthus-Bertrand, is a spectacular presentation of large scale photographs. The astonishing natural landscapes really make you look at the earth in a different light. The organisers’ wecommunic8 are showing a world with a growing population, shrinking biodiversity, polluted lands and oceans, a changing climate and a shortage of water. It’s a positive display though and strives to show us a world of beauty and of wonder.

Navan Fort

The observatory in the City gave us another view of a wider world beyond the universe and to top it all off we went back in time to the Navan Centre and Fort. This is claimed to be one of Ireland’s most importance archaeological sites. The legendary Emain Macha (Navan Fort) is steeped in legend and folklore as this is the ancient seat of the Kings and Queens of Ulster. One feature they have is the reproduction of a willow and thatch house and an “in character” Celtic community who bring history to life in the Iron Age/Early Christian period dwelling with demonstrations of cooking, weaving, farming and advice about how to marry your children off at the age of 12. We lived for less time then (thirty five summers if you were lucky, they tell me) so it made sense to make the most of things. Wealth was measured in how much livestock you owned and wealth was displayed by eating bread (you would have needed slaves to till the ground) and by turning your fur lined garments at the edges so neighbours could see it or having a gold brooch instead of a bronze one. You could divorce your partner for belittling you in public and men and women, although having different roles had equal status. Everyone had a vegetable patch though, although the crops grown were different. These included plants that we usually see in the hedgerows; like sorrel and wild herbs. This brings me nicely back home to our own veggie patch.

Lesson learned
It’s only been a few days since we went away but a lot seems to have changed in the garden. One lesson I have learned about the garden is to only try to keep it tidy in the dormant months. There seems no point working against nature and attempting to keep things orderly. The hedges have shot up and the grass has grown a foot but I don’t care as I can tidy these up later when the growth slows down. The vegetable beds are doing really well too, yes there are weeds that are easily hoed down, but the courgettes, runner beans and lettuce plants are so large now that no weeds can keep up with the. Tthe bed preparation at the start of the season really pays off now in the most productive time in the garden.

Fixing the bed
We still have one bed that doesn’t seem to be doing much. We planted courgettes and peas but they have grown really badly. We know the problem. The bed is too close to an escallonia hedge, too shaded by a willow tree and too dry because of the two afore mentioned problems. On closer inspection the soil is bone dry and this is after three days of heavy (ish ) downpours. We have decided that it’s not too late to improve and re-plant the bed, so I have added some well rotted compost from the compost bin and teased it into the parched soil, this will help retain the moisture and give it a feed too. I decide to plant some mangetout and spinach and give them a good watering. It is a bit late really for the mange tout but if they don’t grow well enough to crop they are still nitrogen fixers and they can rot down into the soil over the winter. I should get a crop of baby leaves for the spinach too. I also plant some more salad crops, lettuce, spring onions, radishes and rocket. I replant some of the alpine strawberries. They are doing really well. I planted them from seeds last summer and they are re-seeding well this year. It’s not the best time to move them, but they are hardy little plants and will soon adapt to their new home.

Over the next couple of weeks there are a few plants that can be sown to increase the productivity of the garden. Green manures are great for sowing now and then dug into the beds next spring before planting. Field beans, red clover, radish tares and rye are all excellent.

Other veg you can grow now includes; Spring cabbage, chicory, fennel, Kohl rabi, land cress, Japanese onions, Pak choi, peas, swiss chard, turnip and winter puslane. With a bit of planning there should be no reason why we can’t be adding our own fresh herbs and veg to soups all year round, just like the characters at the Navan Centre say they do.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Nature Walk

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Growing herbs

Herb Gardens

Why Grow an Herb Garden?
Growing herbs has been a part of life on every continent for thousands of years. Herbs are prized for their scents, medicinal and aromatherapy properties, but are most popular locally for their use in seasoning in cooking. Planting a small sized kitchen herb garden is easy and satisfying. The flavourful, therapeutic, and fragrant plants are beneficial to the family and the garden. Herbs grow perfectly in the beds and borders, pots and even on the windowsill, so there’s absolutely no excuse not to grow at least one type of herb, even if it’s to keep flies away from the kitchen worktops. (Basil is good for this).

Herbs are easy to grow
Herbs can tolerate all types of tough growing conditions. Most of them were originally wild plants that grew in poor soil. Some varieties can be spoilt by the lush conditions of a garden. If they grow too large their flavours and properties become lessened. It's a myth that all herbs like full sun; even good old basil likes partial shade at midday. So when planning your garden, you can divide your plants into two sections. There are those like thyme, sage, rosemary, French tarragon and oregano that like full sun and those that like partial shade, such as rocket, sorrell, lettuce, mustard, parsley and chevril.

Which herbs are best to grow for a beginner?
Coriander, rocket, chives and parsley are easy to grow from seed. Seeds can be sown where you want the plant to grow and don’t need any repotting. You can still grow rocket seeds now – they are ready to eat in a few weeks. Cuttings can be taken of sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano and marjoram –or you can buy them in your local garden centre. Mint can be divided from a friend, but best keep it in pots as it is rampant. Basil is a lovely herb for cooking with –especially yummy in tomato and Italian dishes. It needs good sun though, and is usually repotted when grown from seed. It is prone to greenfly. All these herbs are useful for a basic culinary herb garden and they grow well in containers.


Growing tips for herbs in containers
Herbs grown in containers can be the perfect solution if you are limited for space.
They are a convenient way to have your herbs handy so you have quick access when preparing a meal.

  • When growing herbs in containers, use a soil-based compost, either organic or something like John Innes potting compost. This is because there are very few herbs that grow in peat, and a soil-based compost retains moisture, which is a must to stop containers drying out.
  • Water the containers in the morning rather than the evening because this gives the plants a chance if the temperatures are hot during the day, especially for containers grown in full sun.
  • Feed container plants weekly from March until September. This keeps the plants healthy, helps them produce tasty leaves, especially on cut and come again salads
  • As we are on the coast, a seaweed-based feed is ideal or you could make your own comfrey or nettle juice now. These are not too strong and both will keep the plants healthy.
  • Try not to plant invasive herbs such as mint and lemon balm in a container with other herbs. They will swamp the other plants and take over. It’s better to grow them in separate pots instead.
  • Harvest herbs by pinching off the tips of the plant for use in the kitchen. This will encourage new plant growth, and help keep the plant more compact.

.
Outdoor Herb Garden
Look at the final size of the herbs when planting. In a small bed there won’t be enough space to cultivate herbs such as lovage, lemon balm, fennel or angelica. These large herbs would dominate the other plants and appear out of scale. Many popular choices of growing herbs can be fitted comfortably in a bed sized about 3.5m x 1m. Confine annuals and invasive type herbs such as mint to containers.

Add Herbs to Traditional Vegetable Garden or Flower Borders
Sow dill, borage, and marigold seeds in containers for use when gaps appear in the garden. Add young marjoram, savory, and feverfew plants to the edgings of other low perennials.

Indoor Herb Gardening
  • Many herbs can be successfully grown indoors in a container herb garden.
  • Choose a sunny windowsill to arrange the containers.
  • As with most indoor plants, over-watering can be a bigger problem than under-watering.
  • Be sure that your containers have adequate drainage. A few small holes will be more effective than one big one.
  • Harvest herbs by pinching off the tips of the plants. This encourages bushy plant growth


Harvesting Herbs
Most plants will benefit from being harvested regularly. This encourages vigorous, new growth & prolongs the supply of fresh material. It also improves the shape of the plant, making it bushy & sturdy.

What to look for when harvesting
  • Leaves should be harvested just before the plant flowers.
  • Flowers are at their best when they have just opened.
  • Fruit should be just ripe.
  • Seed is ripe when it changes from green to brown. For seeds in pods, shake the stem. You will hear the seeds rattle when they are ripe.
  • Roots are at their best when the top growth of the plant has completely died back, in autumn or winter.

Here are some ideas to help you get the most out of the herb garden and enjoy the soothing, medicinal and flavoursome delights that these plants have to offer all year round with a bit of preparation.


Drying the herbs

Harvest herbs for drying on a dry, sunny morning.
Cut the stems just above ground level on a still day after the dew has evaporated off of the leaves.
Trim and compost any discoloured or damaged leaves.
Tie into small bunches and hang in a dark, dry, airy place, or put them in a paper bag punched with holes. This will keep them clean and help the drying process.
When the plant is completely dry, it will become brittle. Remove the leaves from the stems and store in airtight jars, preferably in a darkish place.
To keep the maximum flavour, store the leaves whole & crush, if necessary, just before using.

Freezing the herbs
Freezing is the best method for preserving the colour, flavour and nutritional content of herbs with soft, lush, green leaves, (eg. chives, dill, basil, mint, tarragon).

  • If the herbs have any strange looking things on them, you might want to give them a rinse. Dry afterwards. If you can avoid washing them, all the better as I think it holds the taste better
  • Freeze the dried leaves in plastic bags, in bunches, on the stem. There is no need to thaw before using, just add at the end of cooking.
  • Alternatively, chop the herbs finely, put them in ice-cube trays and top up with water. Flowers, especially borage, can be frozen in ice-cubes for adding to drinks.

Preserving herbs in Oil or Vinegar
Herbs preserved in oil or vinegar are very useful for adding flavour to many dishes. The leaves discolour slightly but it’s the infused flavours in the oil or vinegar that are important.

Herb Oils
Fill a wide-necked, sterilised jar with the fresh herb, broken into pieces with your fingers. When the jar is full, cover with good quality olive, sunflower, safflower or almond oil -preferably organic. Put on a tight fitting lid. Stand the jar in a warm or sunny place, covering it with brown paper if it's in a sunny position. Shake at least once a day for 14 days. Strain and store out of direct light.
Suitable herbs to use in oil are: basil, garlic, fennel, lavender, rosemary, savory, tarragon, thyme.
Spices, chillies and orange or lemon peel can be added to help enhance the flavours.

Herb Vinegars
Bruise the herb by rubbing through your fingers and fill a wide-necked jar. Top up with warm (not hot) wine or cider vinegar. Treat the same as you would for the herb oils by shaking and keeping out of bright lights.

Suitable herbs for vinegars include: bay, chervil, dill, elderflower, garlic, fennel, lavender, mint, rosemary, tarragon and thyme. Spices, chillies and citrus rind can also be added.

Fruit vinegars are made by the same method. Roughly chop the fruit in a food processor first.
Suitable fruits to add to vinegar are: blackberries, blackcurrants, blueberries, gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries.

Herbs for Companion Planting
Most herbs can be perfect companions to other plants in the garden. Here are a few ideas.

For an effective deterrent against greenfly try:
Aphids and greenfly: Lots to choose from here: Catnip, Chives, Coriander, Dried & Crushed Chrysanthemum, Eucalyptus, Fennel, Feverfew (attracts aphids away from Roses), Garlic, Larkspur, Marigold, Mint, Mustard, Nasturtium, Onion, Oregano, Petunia, Sunflower.

Basil – Plant with tomatoes. They also repel flies and mosquitoes.
Borage - Helps strawberries to thrive. Assists tomatoes and squash. Borage attracts bees into the garden too.
Chamomile - Plant with onion and cabbage.
Chives - Plant near carrots and apple trees. Chives steeped in water makes a great spray to kill powdery mildew disease.
Comfrey - This herb is often used in compost and as organic fertilizer made into a compost tea. Enriches soil.
Dill - Plant near cabbage, lettuce, corn, and cucumber. Don't plant near fennel to avoid cross-pollination.
Garlic - Plant near fruit trees and tomatoes. Repels red spider mites. Great insecticide steeped in water .
Horseradish – Keeps pests off of potatoes.
Hyssop - Plant near cabbage and grapes.
Lemon Balm - Great for tomatoes.
Lovage – Good planted near practically everything.
Marjoram - A close second to Lovage.
Mint - Plant near cabbage but never near parsley.
Nasturtium - Loves broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower), fruit trees, and radishes. Great insect repellent.
Oregano - Loves grape vines. Insect repellent for cucumber beetle.
Parsley - Loves tomatoes, carrots, chives, and asparagus but doesn’t like mint.
Rosemary - Loves beans, carrots, cabbage and sage but not potatoes.
Rue - It is effective near strawberries and fig trees but never near basil. Plant it wherever you don't want cats to go.
Sage – good with rosemary, cabbage and carrots but never with cucumbers.
Summer Savory - Likes onions and beans.
Tansy - Likes fruit trees.
Tarragon - Likes almost everything.
Thyme - Keeps worms away from cabbage.
Valerian - Good in compost heaps and good for earthworms.

There is no reason why you can’t grow at least one herb. All you really need is one plant pot, a few seeds and a bit of soil and you are ready. Why not try being self sufficient in just one herb, pick one that you enjoy and would normally buy from the shop. Try parsley, coriander or chives.


Herb Seeds
Introducing the attractive sight and deeply aromatic smell of herb varieties to your garden is a real sensory delight, but that's nothing compare to the taste explosion you experience once these culinary plants hit the kitchen table; just imagine turkey without sage and onion stuffing, lamb but no mint sauce and pasta missing a sprinkling of just-picked basil...But you can banish those unpleasant kitchen thoughts with the help of Harrods selection of 100% organic herb seeds which features all the old favourites such as basil, thyme, rosemary, sage and parsley, and a few highly rated but lesser known examples such as borage, savory and chamomile.

Monday, July 26, 2010

Community Gardens


Community Gardens

I’m working for the council in Nottingham. “Here take this”. Jim, the foreman of the local parks gardening team throws me something shiny. “It’s a golden key”. He says with a smile. “With this key you can get access to any padlocked council owned area in the town, look after it well”.

This was a big responsibility for me. From my first days there the foreman dished out responsibilities, some of which I rose to, others made me crumble. In my six months of working with them, they had trusted me to look after hundreds of budgies and care for the bowling greens as well as allowing me on the road in a tractor and trailer, all of which I achieved with honours. Then there were times when I was asked to dig trenches five feet deep by a mile long, across wasteland. If that was a test, I failed and spent the day watching trains go past on the local freight line from the colliery. I was ready for the responsibility of a key though- it’s wasn’t too physically demanding. “First thing I need you to do”, continued Jim, “is to define the edges of the paths on the allotment sites around the town.”

Off I went in my tractor to hole up the traffic and visit the first of five allotment sites. I pushed the key into the lock of the heavy steel gate, and with a satisfying click, I was in to another fabulous world of lush green growth, recycled pallets, old plastic bottles, manure heaps and a very knowledgeable group of gardeners.

The allotment sites were created in the war when it was necessary to Dig for Victory. Food was scarce because of the lack of workers, but in the area where I was working the mines had to stay open to keep producing the coal to make the trains run and to smelt the iron to produce tanks, planes and bombs and anything else the war asked. The allotment sites were all near to largely populated areas, and over the years had matured to be central focal points for the communities. Home made huts, greenhouses and polytunnels were dotted around the allocated sites and everyone on the allotments were on hand to give tips and advice in the art of vegetable and fruit growing to their neighbours. My job was to re-instate the edges of the paths with a spade. It should only take a few days to shovel the fallen soil, but I managed to spin it out for a few weeks, as there was so much to learn from the men working the land.

Being close to the houses meant that the gardeners only needed a wheelbarrow for their tools and picked products. They could get home in two minutes with enough vegetables to feed their street.

The golden key meanwhile played a big part in my teenage years mainly due to the fact that it unlocked the cricket pavilions on the parks, where I would sleep undisturbed for hours on foggy mornings.

Boom times
The boom times in the economy caused allotments to fade in popularity in some areas and unfortunately it was more profitable to develop the land, destroying the culture and history of the social allotment. So much so that nearly a whole generation have lost the art of working with the land. Other social initiatives such as the LETS system of bartering without exchanging any money dwindled in interest as people opted to buy new instead of making do and mending. With the recession though has come a resurgence of interest and popularity in community based projects as we realise just how important these are for a healthy life. The growth of new allotments around Ireland is unprecedented with new initiative springing up in all the counties, the old skills are being re-taught.

Comparing the allotment to a Community garden
There is a bit of confusion about comparing allotments to the new trend of community gardens and although they both serve to supply people with healthy home grown food and a more active lifestyle, there are a few differences between the two.

Allotment
An allotment is a green space, which is divided up into small plots of land of which individuals, or families rent from the town council, county council or entrepreneurial landowners and farmers who put unused land back into being productive in return for financial payments, usually on a yearly basis.

Community garden
A community garden on the other hand is more focused on communally growing crops. Individuals are guided by more experienced gardeners and all work together as a group. The produce from the community garden can be divided among those involved in growing the particular produce, divided equally amongst the members and in some cases sold to raise funds to enhance the facilities on the site. They provide spaces for community interactions and social events, for learning and creativity, for experiencing nature and for exercise. Community gardens bring people together, build relationships, re-connect people to nature and the soil. They can be places to educate young people about where food comes from and how it is grown. Community gardens help subsidise people who are on low incomes, saving money on regular trips to the shops It has been demonstrated that the growing of food, either as a community, on an allotment or in your own back garden can build self-esteem, confidence and encourages medium levels of exercise.

The titles are different but the positive results speak for themselves. Statistics from the Cuban crisis back in the late 1990’s speaks volumes. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the country went into a severe economic crisis as Soviet subsidies dried up, generating severe food and fuel shortages. People were forced to slash their calorie intake, eat more natural food and to travel everywhere on foot or bicycle.

According to a study in the Journal of Epidemiology, between 1997 and 2002, deaths in Cuba caused by diabetes declined by 51%, coronary heart disease mortality dropped 35% and stroke mortality by 20%. Another interesting point about this is that as the economy improves, obesity is rebounding. Around 30% of adult Cubans are now overweight and a quarter have a tendency toward obesity.

More reading
There are a couple of websites where you can get more information about community gardens. GIY Ireland, set up by author Michael Kelly, which has groups all over the country and are setting a couple up in Donegal this year. There is also the Irish Community Food Growing (ICFG), which is an all-Ireland network of Community Food Initiatives (CFIs) – community gardens, allotments, school gardens, education gardens and market gardens.

More stories

Related Posts with Thumbnails