Japanese Knotweed - Tunnel Vision and Wheatgrass update

It’s interesting to see the length the local council is going to curb the spread of Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica). Once the jewel of a Victorian garden container has escaped and is wreaking havoc in open spaces and waterways, not to mention our own gardens. 

The creeping root systems and ability to regrow from the tiniest slither has marked the plant out as number 1 in the invasive plant league.  Our council have found a small clump with three stems along the edge of a fence near some land earmarked for development (at some point)  One time the plant would have been pulled up or strimmed down when mowing. 

Now though a square fence has been erected around the plant and fenced off with wire. We have a professionally printed plastic sign telling the tractor drivers to keep away and then detailing the three main stages of the plant for identification purposes. Images of the green leaves, dead stems and overall foliage are shown se we know what to look for.  I and making an assumption the plant itself will be treated with a suitable chemical and then removed before the fence is taken down. It all seems a bit OTT for three stems but if left unattended for a few seasons and there would be a massive clean-up operation needed as we all now know that you can’t just dig it up and dump it. Good show and well done the council for being so responsible. 

Tunnel Vision

I’ve finally gotten around to clearing the polytunnel. The frog seems to have left the tunnel without leaving any spawn in the pond (well submerged bucket filled with water)  So it looks like I will be going onto the local park and rescuing some that have been laid on damp tyre tracks in the grass. I know we shouldn’t move frogspawn and let nature take its course but when there’s no chance if it hatching as the soil dries I just can’t resist the temptation of picking a few clumps up.

I have some old parsley, rocket and other salad leaves still in there but everything else has been cleared. I’m mulching the ground with well rain rinsed leafmould that came from the edge of some beaches around the peninsula. It’s great stuff as it contains quite a lot of finely shredded seaweed too. The tide has broken everything down to a beautiful consistency which is easily worked into the soil. 

I have a smaller plastic covered frame in the tunnel too and although neglected it has housed some very healthy micro greens aver the winter. I have small shoots of broccoli and kale in there and they will be chopped back in much the same way the wheatgrass is being used. Talking of wheatgrass….

UPDATE:  Wheatgrass Experiment

The wheatgrass is thriving in the trays and I have got a pretty efficient rotation system going. I have about 8 trays on the go, all on different stages of growth - From new seedlings to fully grown grass ready to cut. I’ve found the leaves are at their best when about eight inches tall with a couple of inches of white at their base. When cutting I am leaving about an inch of plant and starting to get a bit of a second flush. They aren’t as strong looking but will test them out in a week or two.

One thing we found though is that a centrifugal juicer doesn’t extract the chlorophyll and liquid from the grass. Try as we might we managed to get one teaspoon of juice from nearly a whole tray of grass.  We have picked up a masticating juicer online though for about €25. It looks very similar to the old metal meat mincing machines we used to use before the butchers did it all for us.  After a few clinical trials I can safely say that this type of juicer extracts roughly the same amount of juice as the centrifugal one. I did have it set up wrong at first and most of the juice went onto the floor instead of into the plastic jug, but one sheet of tissue more than mopped the spill up. I think I need to grow the wheatgrass on a bit; at least that way I’ll get more than a teaspoon full from a tray.

UPDATE 2:  The frog appeared from under a small log in the bucket so just like in the building industry when they unearth an antiquity; all work has stopped in the tunnel until further notice.

Camellia Growing

Some trees on our park have grown tall enough to obstruct the adjoining homeowner’s view of the countryside and industrial units. The council took action and with the help of a subcontractor managed to chop the tops off and shred the resulting wood into neat piles. The trees look a bit odd, being lopped isn’t the most visually pleasing style and I’m sure if it was in your own garden a tree surgeon would have done a bit more sculpting.  It’s not really an issue here and if the neighbours are happy then all’s well. 

I’m benefiting too as I’ve been scuttling down there with my empty coal and compost bags shoveling in the resulting woodchip. It’s very good stuff too. I’m a bit unsure what to do with it and will be leaving it in the bags until I decide to use it as weed suppressing mulch, put it in the compost and let it rot down before using it, or both. I’m not short of it now and there’s plenty more to go at. There’s even enough for the neighbours to have a few bags as well. Enough about mulching, let’s have a look at a spring favourite flower, the camellia.

Camellia

Camellias are one of the most popular winter- and spring-flowering shrubs, providing a vivid splash of colour when little else is in bloom. Although they need acid soil, they are easy to grow in containers of ericaceous (acidic) potting compost.

Growing

Site and soil conditions

Camellias are woodland plants that grow best in shelter and light shade, although with careful watering they can be grown in sunny positions.  They prefer free-draining conditions, with plenty of organic matter, such as leaf mould, incorporated into the soil. Being ericaceous plants, camellias require an acid soil. If your soil isn't acid then consider growing your camellia in a container.

Watering

Rain water is ideal for watering camellias and is preferable to tap water if you need to keep young plants moist in the summer. There’s less calcium in rainwater.

Feeding

Feed camellias in spring and early summer with acidic fertilisers if needed. I’ve found that most gardens are adequately acidic but nearer the coast some peat based soil could be used as mulch or get yourself some seaweed. 

Container growing

Camellias make lovely container-grown plants and this is a particularly good method if your garden soil is too alkaline for camellias. Use an ericaceous or multi-purpose potting compost. John Innes ericaceous compost usually gives good results, as its loam content makes it especially easy to manage.

RHS research has found that soil-less potting media, including peat-free potting composts, are suitable for camellia growing. However these composts can lose their structure over time leading to poor drainage and an airless root environment, causing leaves to brown and die back. Re-potting in spring every other year into fresh potting compost is recommended. In the intervening year, replace the top 5cm (2in) of compost and look out for root eating grubs. After a few years you might need to try a bit of root pruning if they are not put into a larger container.

Pruning and training

Camellias form flower buds in late summer and autumn, especially on new growth. Pruning at this time could remove potential flowering growth. Therefore pruning is best done in spring, immediately after flowering and following the advice given for other evergreen shrubs. Where an overgrown camellia needs to be reduced or renovated, hard pruning is usually safe and reliable.

Propagation

Camellias can be propagated from semi-ripe cuttings, hardwood cuttings, layering and grafting. Seed is also an option, but seedlings will not usually come true to parent type.

Semi-ripe cuttings often root better if slightly wounded by taking a 1.5cm (5/8in) strip of bark off the base of the cutting and dipping the wound in hormone rooting compound.

Hardwood cuttings are taken as for semi-ripe cuttings, but between autumn and late winter. They can root in three months.

In a good summer, camellias sometimes produce seedpods – more often in single-flowered varieties. Although the resulting seedlings will take six to eight years to flower and will be of unpredictable quality, many gardeners like the challenges of seed propagation

Problems

Despite being easy to grow, camellias are occasionally subject to problems, normal leaf drop isn’t any cause for concern but other things might be. There are a few diseases that cause leaf drop or yellowing. Some winter protection might be needed for container grown ones, buds might drop off in cold weather and if the plants are fed after July. Don’t let this put you off growing them though, they are well worth the effort and if one does die you can always replace it with one of your rooted cuttings.

Wheatgrass

There’s a sign on the side of the road coming out of Derry to Bridgend that says you can have a month’s supply of frozen grass for €30. This seems like a lot for something you can get off the back garden on a frosty day, but it actually refers to Wheatgrass. 

There’s a huge market for this ‘superfood’ and you could pay as much as €1.50 for an eggcup sized glass of extracted juice in some places.

Wheatgrass

I’ve been intrigued about the plant for some time so this week I have planted a few trays myself to

see what all the fuss is about.

I was surprised when I opened the 5kg bag that the seeds are actually wheat. I’m not really sure in hindsight what I was expecting, but with all of the hype I thought they would look different somehow. But no, it’s just wheat (Triticum aestivum), the ‘grass’ part refers to the look of the plant as is cut in its early stage of growth. As the grass is bitter and stringy it’s generally run through a juicer to extract the vitamins and minerals.

Origins of juicing

I’m sure juicing is as old as food itself but the idea for wheatgrass juicing is attributed to a dietary health specialist called Dr Bircher-Benner (1867-1939)  who dubbed the juice as 'concentrated sunlight'. He was convinced that health care should be much more than just medical treatments.

In 1897, he founded a sanatorium in Zürich where he practised therapies which included a daily walk, bathing and sunbathing. He even set up exercise equipment, a kind of a forerunner of the fitness centres of today.

He famously invented muesli, and strongly advocated the consumption of more fruit and vegetables, which were traditionally regarded as foods for the poor. Contrary to orthodox medical doctrines of his time, Dr. Bircher continued to believe in what he called "the food of sunlight", meals based on natural raw ingredients so green juices are said to be a forerunner to the raw food movement.

Is wheatgrass powerful?

Wheatgrass is referred to by ‘health food experts’ as a green superfood as it has exceptional nutritional properties. I would say here that the amount of nutrition in wheatgrass is comparable to juicing most raw plants such as broccoli, kale and spinach. Like these wheatgrass has essential nutrients and proteins in the form of amino acids, a collection of vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and phytonutrients. The juice is a source of B vitamins, including vitamin B12, folic acid, and also vitamins A, C, E and contains calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc and selenium. The benefits of drinking any green vegetable juice can increase vitality, well-being and energy levels and it’s a good introduction to eating more fresh vegetables

Can Wheatgrass Treat What Ails You?

Wheatgrass believers use it to try and combat a number of everyday health conditions, including colds, coughs, fevers, digestive problems, and skin conditions. Wheatgrass also has been used to potentially prevent and treat more serious conditions, from cancer to AIDS. Those who swear by it say that the potent ingredient in wheatgrass is chlorophyll, the pigment that gives plants their green colour. They say chlorophyll acts like hemoglobin (the protein in red blood cells that transports oxygen) and increases oxygen levels in the body. Any green plant food you have eaten over the years, such as spinach, parsley, arugula, has also been contributing chlorophyll so again no big surprise there.

Does Wheatgrass Live Up to the Claims?

Despite all the health claims, there is very little, if any, evidence that wheatgrass actually works to detoxify or prevent or cure disease. Most of what little research has been conducted focuses on the effects of wheatgrass on the digestive system. There is an ever growing list of superfoods from avocados, broccoli, mushrooms, blueberry and gogi berries to sweet potatoes. There’s one thing you can rely on though is the price will go up with demand and marketing.

Any risks?

Although wheatgrass is considered safe, some people have reported side effects after using it,

especially in high doses. They have ranged from mild (headaches and nausea) to more serious allergic reactions (hives and swelling of the throat). Because most people eat wheatgrass raw, there is also the rare chance that it can be contaminated with bacteria or other organisms from the soil.

Should I Use Wheatgrass?

There isn't really any harm in trying a small amount of wheatgrass . You can buy the drinks readymade or buy full trays of the grass. Maybe you could do what I have and grow a tray yourself to experiment.  All you need is a handful of seeds, a tray with some soil in it (even the soil is optional) and then follow a few youtube videos until you find a method to suit. I’ve opted for the tray covered with newspapers after soaking the seeds for a few days. You’ll probably find the leftover pulp makes a great skin toner too.

Update: I've just found out that we need to buy a masticating juicer. Centrifugal juicers only produce about a teaspoon of juice per tray!

Children, pregnant or nursing women, and anyone who has compromised immunity should avoid it because of the potential for bacteria.

Updated images: Various stages of growth. A fungus appeared telling me I had these a bit too wet. It' probably why it's recommended to cut about 1" above the seeds.

Spuds

It’s time to think about growing a few spuds.

I was chatting to Klaus Laitenberger from Green VegetableSeeds this week about planting times for the varieties he stocks in his shop. Klaus tells us there are some amazing and unique varieties available and his tubers listed here are certified disease free, which will save any shortages this year.

Planting definitions of potatoes

First earlies: Plant in tunnel in February and harvest in late May/June. Plant outdoors in mid-March and harvest July. Spacing: 20cm in drill (drills widely spaced so you can earth up)

Second earlies: Plant outdoors in late March/mid April and harvest late July to September. Spacing: 30cm in drill (drills widely spaced so you can earth up)

Maincrop: Plant outdoors in mid-April and harvest late September to October. Spacing: 30cm in drill (drills widely spaced so you can earth up)

There are usually about 10-12 seed potatoes in a kilo.

Different types of potatoes

International Kidney – also known as Jersey Royal (First Early)

Jersey Royal certainly sounds a lot better than International Kidney, but only potato growers from Jersey can call them with the real name.  This potato originated in Jersey around 1880.  The EU protects this variety and it was given protection of designation of origin (PDO), just like champagne that can only come from the Champagne region.

You can grow them like any early potato and plant the seed potatoes around mid-March.  Potatoes can be harvested from June onwards.  If left in the ground a bit longer they can be used as maincrop potatoes, for roasting, chips or wedges.

Red Duke of York (First Earlies)

One of the few red-skinned first early varieties.  They grow easily and produce a high yield of delicious large tuber suitable for baking and chips. 

Red Duke of York potatoes can be planted from mid-March/early April and harvest starts in July.

Homeguard (First Earlies)

A first early potato. It has an excellent flavour and good scab resistance.  Blight resistance is low but is usually harvested before blight arrives.  A great all-rounder suitable for steaming, boiling, baking, mashing, roasting and frying.

Homeguard potatoes can be planted from mid-March/early April and harvest starts in July. 

Charlotte (second early)

Charlotte is a second early waxy potato which are excellent for boiling without falling apart.  The flesh is creamy yellow. They taste delicious hot or cold in a potato salad.  They also make delicious roast potatoes.  Charlotte grows on all soils and has good overall disease resistance. Blight resistance is average but good resistance to slugs and scab.

Charlotte potatoes can be planted in late March/early April and harvest starts in late July.

Wilja (second early)

Wilja is well known for its taste.  It has the old-fashioned real potato flavour.    It’s a dry potato excellent for boiling, roasting and chips.  The potatoes are less prone to disintegrating if boiled too long.  It also has good resistance to scab and slugs. 

Wilja potatoes can be planted in late March/early April and harvest starts in late July.

Arran Victory (maincrop)

A heritage variety from 1918 bred on the Arran Island on the West Coast of Scotland.  The tubers have deep purple skins and pure white flesh.  It’s delicious steamed, roasted or mashed, but falls apart when boiled.  

Arran Victory potatoes can be planted in mid-April and harvest starts in September/October.

Salad Blue (maincrop)

First grown around 1900. Both the skin and the flesh have a deep blue/purple colour that remains even after boiling.  You can have blue chips, blue potato salad or even a blue mash. The name Salad Blue may be a bit misleading as its best use is for mashed potatoes and not for salad unless you like a stodgy potato salad.  

Salad Blue potatoes can be planted in mid-April and harvest starts in September/October.

Sarpo Mira (maincrop)

You’ll be guaranteed a massive yield of potatoes and the one that blight will not touch.  There have been many years where all other varieties collapsed with blight and this one stood proud with not a sign of the dreaded disease.  Sarpo Mira has very large, irregular shaped pink tubers.  The growth is very strong and the foliage quickly covers the soil thus reducing the need for weed control. 

Sarpo Mira potatoes can be planted in mid-April and harvest starts in September/October.

Golden Wonder (maincrop)

A gourmet potato with many followers.  It has a chestnut creamy brown russet skin and is one of the most floury potatoes and has a lot of fans in Ireland.  The flavour is excellent.  It’s suitable for 

boiling, steaming and roasting.

Golden Wonder potatoes can be planted in mid-April and harvest starts in September/October.

Pink Fir Apple (maincrop)

Also known as a fingerling potato due to the long and narrow, knobbly tubers.  The skin is pink and the flesh is white.  The flavour is outstanding, a nutty, earthy buttery taste.  In fact it tastes like an already buttered potato.  It’s ideal for boiling and makes a delicious potato salad.

All this talk of spuds is making me hungry. I’m going to pop a few in the oven.