Algae and Chamomile

A gooey dark green algae has taken over my garden. It started innocently enough when I compacted a bit of the lawn when I set up the shed a couple of years ago. There were a couple of small isolated patches of some slimy stuff and I didn’t really pay any attention to.

Big mistake.

Over the course of two years it has spread from the damp, compacted shady area at the side of the shed and taken over nearly all the garden. When it rains now all of the water runs off the ground without sinking in. The takeover didn’t just confine itself to the grass either. Slowly but surely it has crept over the concrete path making it really slippery to walk on. It didn’t stop there either as it  worked its way up long wooden planks and totally engulfed the soil and chamomile plants I have growing in a row the length of the tunnel exterior. 

I have researched the algae and most people say it’s non-pathogenic, meaning it doesn’t cause diseases to plants.  But it does seem to be killing the chamomile and by starving the roots of other plants with rain washing off before it gets time to be absorbed by the soil. So I would say it is quite damaging, not in a chemical way but an environmental one in a garden setting. 

I need to take some action then, which is pretty unusual for me as I just tend to let the garden do its own thing.  I have already put sharp sand down on the grass. I did that last winter. The algae has just grown over it and engulfed it totally.  I’ve tried using some Jeyes fluid on the paths to no avail and even bleach (don’t tell anyone) but it goes to show what lengths we go to when there’s an issue.  My next product will be something containing iron sulphate as that’s the wonder chemical for keeping algae and moss under control. It pains me to have to go to these extremes but as my balanced eco system collapses I feel drastic measures are needed.

Chamomile

On the subject of chamomile, I have managed to salvage a huge amount of offshoots and cuttings from the plants before the mould took hold. For the last few years I have been selling the small rooted plugs on eBay to people who want to create their own chamomile lawn. The plants I have are the non-flowering chamomile ‘treneague’ type that is related to the variety produced In the 1930s by Dorothy Sewart who lived in in Cornwall.   Her garden chamomile spread to form a low growing plant which never flowered. It formed a fragrant, neat, rich green lawn which did not turn brown in dry weather. I acquired some original cuttings in 2004 and also was given some cuttings from a very generous lady in the heart of Donegal.  Since then they have gone from strength to strength and do make a great ground cover. The spacing is important to ensure the plants cover the ground quickly as almost any weed getting a foothold in the gaps will smother the chamomile quickly.  I’d say that having a “Chamomile lawn” does sound like it’s easier to look after than normal grass as it doesn’t need cutting, but from experience It’s not the case. They are labour intensive and best for just small areas. I tell my customers the same too as I wouldn’t like them to get any nasty surprises. 

Spread

Over the last few years both types of plants have spread really well. For some reason the Donegal variety grow to about twice the size of the original Cornish type so I think I could market these as something a bit different and have an Irish connection to them.  I’m not quite sure what to call them but it’ll probably have “Donegal” in the title. Chamomile ‘Donegal Wonder’ has a nice ring to it although in hindsight it does sound a bit like a potato variety. I’ll think about it.

Chamomile is so easy to propagate, all you need is a bit of time to pull off the offshoots and either replant them in a weed free place or put them in pots for a while to allow the roots to develop a bit more. Most of the offshoots I have small roots already, especially if they are touching soil.  I have mine in trays of moist, loose compost and even in the cool spring weather have grown new roots within a week - Some of them up to an inch long.  

They will grow well in water too but because the roots haven’t met any resistance growing they aren’t really tough enough to cope.

A bit like life really.

Japanese Knotweed - Tunnel Vision and Wheatgrass update

It’s interesting to see the length the local council is going to curb the spread of Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica). Once the jewel of a Victorian garden container has escaped and is wreaking havoc in open spaces and waterways, not to mention our own gardens. 

The creeping root systems and ability to regrow from the tiniest slither has marked the plant out as number 1 in the invasive plant league.  Our council have found a small clump with three stems along the edge of a fence near some land earmarked for development (at some point)  One time the plant would have been pulled up or strimmed down when mowing. 

Now though a square fence has been erected around the plant and fenced off with wire. We have a professionally printed plastic sign telling the tractor drivers to keep away and then detailing the three main stages of the plant for identification purposes. Images of the green leaves, dead stems and overall foliage are shown se we know what to look for.  I and making an assumption the plant itself will be treated with a suitable chemical and then removed before the fence is taken down. It all seems a bit OTT for three stems but if left unattended for a few seasons and there would be a massive clean-up operation needed as we all now know that you can’t just dig it up and dump it. Good show and well done the council for being so responsible. 

Tunnel Vision

I’ve finally gotten around to clearing the polytunnel. The frog seems to have left the tunnel without leaving any spawn in the pond (well submerged bucket filled with water)  So it looks like I will be going onto the local park and rescuing some that have been laid on damp tyre tracks in the grass. I know we shouldn’t move frogspawn and let nature take its course but when there’s no chance if it hatching as the soil dries I just can’t resist the temptation of picking a few clumps up.

I have some old parsley, rocket and other salad leaves still in there but everything else has been cleared. I’m mulching the ground with well rain rinsed leafmould that came from the edge of some beaches around the peninsula. It’s great stuff as it contains quite a lot of finely shredded seaweed too. The tide has broken everything down to a beautiful consistency which is easily worked into the soil. 

I have a smaller plastic covered frame in the tunnel too and although neglected it has housed some very healthy micro greens aver the winter. I have small shoots of broccoli and kale in there and they will be chopped back in much the same way the wheatgrass is being used. Talking of wheatgrass….

UPDATE:  Wheatgrass Experiment

The wheatgrass is thriving in the trays and I have got a pretty efficient rotation system going. I have about 8 trays on the go, all on different stages of growth - From new seedlings to fully grown grass ready to cut. I’ve found the leaves are at their best when about eight inches tall with a couple of inches of white at their base. When cutting I am leaving about an inch of plant and starting to get a bit of a second flush. They aren’t as strong looking but will test them out in a week or two.

One thing we found though is that a centrifugal juicer doesn’t extract the chlorophyll and liquid from the grass. Try as we might we managed to get one teaspoon of juice from nearly a whole tray of grass.  We have picked up a masticating juicer online though for about €25. It looks very similar to the old metal meat mincing machines we used to use before the butchers did it all for us.  After a few clinical trials I can safely say that this type of juicer extracts roughly the same amount of juice as the centrifugal one. I did have it set up wrong at first and most of the juice went onto the floor instead of into the plastic jug, but one sheet of tissue more than mopped the spill up. I think I need to grow the wheatgrass on a bit; at least that way I’ll get more than a teaspoon full from a tray.

UPDATE 2:  The frog appeared from under a small log in the bucket so just like in the building industry when they unearth an antiquity; all work has stopped in the tunnel until further notice.

Camellia Growing

Some trees on our park have grown tall enough to obstruct the adjoining homeowner’s view of the countryside and industrial units. The council took action and with the help of a subcontractor managed to chop the tops off and shred the resulting wood into neat piles. The trees look a bit odd, being lopped isn’t the most visually pleasing style and I’m sure if it was in your own garden a tree surgeon would have done a bit more sculpting.  It’s not really an issue here and if the neighbours are happy then all’s well. 

I’m benefiting too as I’ve been scuttling down there with my empty coal and compost bags shoveling in the resulting woodchip. It’s very good stuff too. I’m a bit unsure what to do with it and will be leaving it in the bags until I decide to use it as weed suppressing mulch, put it in the compost and let it rot down before using it, or both. I’m not short of it now and there’s plenty more to go at. There’s even enough for the neighbours to have a few bags as well. Enough about mulching, let’s have a look at a spring favourite flower, the camellia.

Camellia

Camellias are one of the most popular winter- and spring-flowering shrubs, providing a vivid splash of colour when little else is in bloom. Although they need acid soil, they are easy to grow in containers of ericaceous (acidic) potting compost.

Growing

Site and soil conditions

Camellias are woodland plants that grow best in shelter and light shade, although with careful watering they can be grown in sunny positions.  They prefer free-draining conditions, with plenty of organic matter, such as leaf mould, incorporated into the soil. Being ericaceous plants, camellias require an acid soil. If your soil isn't acid then consider growing your camellia in a container.

Watering

Rain water is ideal for watering camellias and is preferable to tap water if you need to keep young plants moist in the summer. There’s less calcium in rainwater.

Feeding

Feed camellias in spring and early summer with acidic fertilisers if needed. I’ve found that most gardens are adequately acidic but nearer the coast some peat based soil could be used as mulch or get yourself some seaweed. 

Container growing

Camellias make lovely container-grown plants and this is a particularly good method if your garden soil is too alkaline for camellias. Use an ericaceous or multi-purpose potting compost. John Innes ericaceous compost usually gives good results, as its loam content makes it especially easy to manage.

RHS research has found that soil-less potting media, including peat-free potting composts, are suitable for camellia growing. However these composts can lose their structure over time leading to poor drainage and an airless root environment, causing leaves to brown and die back. Re-potting in spring every other year into fresh potting compost is recommended. In the intervening year, replace the top 5cm (2in) of compost and look out for root eating grubs. After a few years you might need to try a bit of root pruning if they are not put into a larger container.

Pruning and training

Camellias form flower buds in late summer and autumn, especially on new growth. Pruning at this time could remove potential flowering growth. Therefore pruning is best done in spring, immediately after flowering and following the advice given for other evergreen shrubs. Where an overgrown camellia needs to be reduced or renovated, hard pruning is usually safe and reliable.

Propagation

Camellias can be propagated from semi-ripe cuttings, hardwood cuttings, layering and grafting. Seed is also an option, but seedlings will not usually come true to parent type.

Semi-ripe cuttings often root better if slightly wounded by taking a 1.5cm (5/8in) strip of bark off the base of the cutting and dipping the wound in hormone rooting compound.

Hardwood cuttings are taken as for semi-ripe cuttings, but between autumn and late winter. They can root in three months.

In a good summer, camellias sometimes produce seedpods – more often in single-flowered varieties. Although the resulting seedlings will take six to eight years to flower and will be of unpredictable quality, many gardeners like the challenges of seed propagation

Problems

Despite being easy to grow, camellias are occasionally subject to problems, normal leaf drop isn’t any cause for concern but other things might be. There are a few diseases that cause leaf drop or yellowing. Some winter protection might be needed for container grown ones, buds might drop off in cold weather and if the plants are fed after July. Don’t let this put you off growing them though, they are well worth the effort and if one does die you can always replace it with one of your rooted cuttings.

Wheatgrass

There’s a sign on the side of the road coming out of Derry to Bridgend that says you can have a month’s supply of frozen grass for €30. This seems like a lot for something you can get off the back garden on a frosty day, but it actually refers to Wheatgrass. 

There’s a huge market for this ‘superfood’ and you could pay as much as €1.50 for an eggcup sized glass of extracted juice in some places.

Wheatgrass

I’ve been intrigued about the plant for some time so this week I have planted a few trays myself to

see what all the fuss is about.

I was surprised when I opened the 5kg bag that the seeds are actually wheat. I’m not really sure in hindsight what I was expecting, but with all of the hype I thought they would look different somehow. But no, it’s just wheat (Triticum aestivum), the ‘grass’ part refers to the look of the plant as is cut in its early stage of growth. As the grass is bitter and stringy it’s generally run through a juicer to extract the vitamins and minerals.

Origins of juicing

I’m sure juicing is as old as food itself but the idea for wheatgrass juicing is attributed to a dietary health specialist called Dr Bircher-Benner (1867-1939)  who dubbed the juice as 'concentrated sunlight'. He was convinced that health care should be much more than just medical treatments.

In 1897, he founded a sanatorium in Zürich where he practised therapies which included a daily walk, bathing and sunbathing. He even set up exercise equipment, a kind of a forerunner of the fitness centres of today.

He famously invented muesli, and strongly advocated the consumption of more fruit and vegetables, which were traditionally regarded as foods for the poor. Contrary to orthodox medical doctrines of his time, Dr. Bircher continued to believe in what he called "the food of sunlight", meals based on natural raw ingredients so green juices are said to be a forerunner to the raw food movement.

Is wheatgrass powerful?

Wheatgrass is referred to by ‘health food experts’ as a green superfood as it has exceptional nutritional properties. I would say here that the amount of nutrition in wheatgrass is comparable to juicing most raw plants such as broccoli, kale and spinach. Like these wheatgrass has essential nutrients and proteins in the form of amino acids, a collection of vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and phytonutrients. The juice is a source of B vitamins, including vitamin B12, folic acid, and also vitamins A, C, E and contains calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc and selenium. The benefits of drinking any green vegetable juice can increase vitality, well-being and energy levels and it’s a good introduction to eating more fresh vegetables

Can Wheatgrass Treat What Ails You?

Wheatgrass believers use it to try and combat a number of everyday health conditions, including colds, coughs, fevers, digestive problems, and skin conditions. Wheatgrass also has been used to potentially prevent and treat more serious conditions, from cancer to AIDS. Those who swear by it say that the potent ingredient in wheatgrass is chlorophyll, the pigment that gives plants their green colour. They say chlorophyll acts like hemoglobin (the protein in red blood cells that transports oxygen) and increases oxygen levels in the body. Any green plant food you have eaten over the years, such as spinach, parsley, arugula, has also been contributing chlorophyll so again no big surprise there.

Does Wheatgrass Live Up to the Claims?

Despite all the health claims, there is very little, if any, evidence that wheatgrass actually works to detoxify or prevent or cure disease. Most of what little research has been conducted focuses on the effects of wheatgrass on the digestive system. There is an ever growing list of superfoods from avocados, broccoli, mushrooms, blueberry and gogi berries to sweet potatoes. There’s one thing you can rely on though is the price will go up with demand and marketing.

Any risks?

Although wheatgrass is considered safe, some people have reported side effects after using it,

especially in high doses. They have ranged from mild (headaches and nausea) to more serious allergic reactions (hives and swelling of the throat). Because most people eat wheatgrass raw, there is also the rare chance that it can be contaminated with bacteria or other organisms from the soil.

Should I Use Wheatgrass?

There isn't really any harm in trying a small amount of wheatgrass . You can buy the drinks readymade or buy full trays of the grass. Maybe you could do what I have and grow a tray yourself to experiment.  All you need is a handful of seeds, a tray with some soil in it (even the soil is optional) and then follow a few youtube videos until you find a method to suit. I’ve opted for the tray covered with newspapers after soaking the seeds for a few days. You’ll probably find the leftover pulp makes a great skin toner too.

Update: I've just found out that we need to buy a masticating juicer. Centrifugal juicers only produce about a teaspoon of juice per tray!

Children, pregnant or nursing women, and anyone who has compromised immunity should avoid it because of the potential for bacteria.

Updated images: Various stages of growth. A fungus appeared telling me I had these a bit too wet. It' probably why it's recommended to cut about 1" above the seeds.