LAWN CARE

Some of us have actually managed to cut the grass this year. There have been enough dry days to get the mower out without it sinking in the mud. Getting an attractive lawn for the summer doesn’t have to mean hard work and a barrow full of chemicals.

Here are some handy tips for a lush sward.

Keep off the lawn when it's wet or frosty. Compaction, poor drainage, acidity, shade, too close mowing, underfeeding and drought can all encourage moss to take over.

Getting the grass into shape helps to keep the invasive weeds and moss down to a minimum. On a nice dry day, gently rake the grass with a spring-tined rake, taking care not to tear the surface too much. This removes the winter thatch and lifts grass and weed foliage for efficient cutting.

Bare patches attract weeds, so re-sow them now. Fork the soil to break it up, then firm and level it before applying an appropriate grass seed. Be creative and come up with a way to keep the birds from feeding on the seed. I use the free CD’s from newspapers attached to sticks, which work very well.

If you want a quick fix for bare patches (not for the head I am afraid) cut a strip of lawn from a rich growing patch and transfer it to the bare bit. Re-sow the area you dug from. It is always worth re-seeding an area in the shade with a mixture specifically selected to thrive in such sites.

There are a lot of facts and figures about the recommended height for grass to be cut. Ideally, mow grass when it's just over 1cm (0.5in) higher than you want it. Some people with bowling green quality lawns get out at least three times a week to keep the grass in perfect condition. I would recommend that you don’t leave yours longer than a week at the height of the season, cut it when you can.

Avoid scalping the grass because this encourages moss and weakens the growth.

When you cut during the spring and summer, leave the clippings on the lawn. As they decompose, they release up to 30 per cent of the lawn's required nutrients.

Remove the clippings from the lawn at the beginning and end of the growing season when decomposition is slow as this can cause rotting in the wet conditions.

If you have a small lawn, discourage perennial weeds. Dig them out regularly with a narrow trowel.

Encourage clover because it collects nitrogen from the air and releases it from root nodules to the growing grass. To build up clover, oversow with clover seed 'Kent Wild White' during spring, at the rate of 5g per square metre.

If necessary, feed the lawn now or in summer with slow-release organic fertilisers. Seaweed extract, applied as a foliar feed, will green up your lawn. You could make your own in a bucket as long as the salt is washed out first.

Avoid overfeeding as this causes lush growth that's prone to disease.

Now is a good time to thicken up a poor quality or worn lawn, rake up debris and sow some good quality seed.

If possible, install a proper path or stepping-stones to avoid any excessive wear and tear.


Increase your bedding plants...for free!

If you have been to the garden centres and bought some bedding plants then how would you fancy increasing your stock? Most annual plants grow well from cuttings and if you start them young there is no reason why they shouldn’t give you a fantastic show in the pots and baskets this year. I bought a fine looking petunia one time and managed to get over 30 baby plants, which flowered all summer.

Carefully cut off the growing tips of petunias, fuschias and other plants, and plant into potting compost. This will make the original plant bushier too. Most other annual plants can be propagated in the same way, just make sure you make the cut just below a node so roots can develop.