Planning for Winter

The missed beans will be planted out next year.

Our vegetable patch is looking a bit sorry for itself at the moment.  Like most years the runner beans seem to just shrivel up in the cold wind and those that I missed have produced the most lovely beans which I might keep over to plant out next year.  The courgettes have turned to liquid goo ready for the slugs and snails to suck up.  The peas that we didn’t see to harvest have turned into bullets and the mange tout are so stringy you could make rope out of the fibre, the dog is enjoying them though.  There are some vegetables that are only just starting to come into their own and will hopefully see the winter out and be the first crops we will be harvesting in early spring.  We haven’t got a lot to overwinter as this is our first year of growing in the new place, but out of them all its broccoli that come out on top for me because harvesting it indicates the start of a new growing year. I like the taste too.

Most vegetable gardens can accommodate winter crops and a bit of planning now will mean more self sufficiency in spring. Some vegetables, such as Brussels sprouts, take up a lot of space for a long time but are still well-worth the investment. 

Planting

Choose an open site with free-draining soil as the winters can waterlog even the driest spots. Mulch or lightly cultivate prior to sowing or planting and enriched with organic material.

Our dog is enjoying the stringy mange tout more than me.

You could also try planting a few veggies in containers; less greedy feeders will do well. Planting potatoes in late summer should get you a basket full for the Christmas dinner. If a greenhouse or polytunnel is available, it can be used to over-winter some crops and start others off early. However, heating greenhouses for year round harvests is rarely efficient. I remember the staff at the Organic Centre in Rossinver telling me that a polythene tunnel will grow all year round without the need for heat; it’s just picking the right plants to grow that is important. It’s probably more important for commercial growers to do this; I like the idea of giving the soil a bit of a rest sometimes.  

What to grow for winter

 Good disease resistant crops could be broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, kale, leeks and parsnips These are all hardy vegetables and will stand through the winter. Leafy crops such as chard, parsley and rocket should also over-winter with a little protection. Other crops such as carrots, onions, turnips and winter squash can also be grown to enjoy in winter if stored , which is an art in itself.

When to sow vegetables for winter harvests

Spring and summer

Sow hardy winter vegetables such as sprouting broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, winter cabbage and leeks in late spring or early summer as they take several months to reach maturity. They stand well through frosty weather and can be harvested throughout the winter months.

Sow leafy crops such as chard, chicory and parsley in early summer for autumn harvests that can last into winter if they are provided with some fleece or cloche protection.

Late summer and autumn

Sow corn salad, land cress and oriental salad leaves such as komatsuna, mibuna, mizuna, mustard and rocket. These will provide cut-and-come-again leaves through the autumn, and winter if covered with a cloche, coldframe or fleece. It’s also a good time to be sowing green manures such as clover or rye..  They are not edible crops but useful for fixing nitrogen for next year and help to stop soil erosion

Growing tips for a Winter Harvest

It takes a little planning to have enough vegetables for winter and I haven’t managed it in 30 years!  We don’t give up though..I have enlisted the help of the RHS for some tips and advice.

·         Sow brassicas and leeks into a seedbed outside or into seed trays, cell trays or pots indoors

·         Sow parsnips direct into the ground and be aware they may take several weeks to germinate

·         Harden off seedlings raised in the greenhouse thoroughly before planting them outside

·         Transplant seedlings to their final positions when they have formed small, sturdy plants with two or four pairs of true leaves (in the case of leeks, when they are pencil thick)

·         Sow salad plants direct into the ground in summer in shallow drills that have been watered prior to sowing

·         In summer, use space wisely by sowing or transplanting seedlings into ground vacated by early crops, such as broad beans or early potatoes

·         Keep plants well-watered

·         Hoe between rows regularly to keep them free of weeds

·         Cover salads and leafy plants with cloches for protection before the frosts

Problems

As with any vegetable growing, there are a number of things that can go wrong, and I should know!

·         Some leafy crops are prone to bolting if they experience stress

·         Cabbages will need protection from caterpillars

·         Broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cabbages are prone to club root

·         Flea beetles are a common problem on oriental salad leaves

·         Winter vegetables are often attacked by pigeons and will need the protection of netting from autumn onwards

·         Slugs and snails are a major pest of seedlings and leafy crops

·         Poor quality Brussels sprouts can be due to a range of cultivation problems

·         Root vegetables are prone to splitting when heavy rains follow drought

·         Cabbage whitefly can infest all brassicas, but may be tolerated or treated with a range of sprays.

You might be tempted to think that it’d be easier to go to the shops (or the growing array of local organic market stalls setting up around the peninsula... You’d be right!

But it’s not all about being easy is it?