Weather Conditions - Visual signs

Some waterlogged areas can sit for ages

You probably won’t agree with me but I think it’s great we have a winter this year. 

Wind, freezing temperatures, rain all contribute to the health of the garden eventually and I find that the weather is usually worse when you are looking at it through the window instead of being out in it.

It might not feel it at the time and sometimes nature gets a little bit enthusiastic which can undo some of the hard work we have put into the soil and plants. Sunshine and drought can be just as damaging in the summer but it’s easier for us as we can at least get a tan as we try to keep the lawn from turning brown. 

Let’s have a look at what the winter weather can do to the garden:

Heavy rain: Tends to affect the top of plants with rain damage breaking delicate shoots and flowers. However it is soil saturation and flooding that causes most harm.

Frost: Also tends to affect the top of plants where the freezing is most intense. Lower leaves and areas inside the leaf canopy are less affected. Frost can damage plants randomly in an affected area with some plants losing buds, foliage, flowers and fruits and others being unaffected.

Snow: As well as freezing damage, mechanical damage is caused by the weight of snow breaking branches, especially on hedging.

Hail: Causes bruising and abrasion and occasionally defoliation or loss of fruits. Hail causes tiny scars on young leaves and fruits that become very noticeable as the plants develop. Hail damage mainly affects the top of plants. We’re lucky here, in Australia where my brother lives the hail goes through car windscreens and knocks people out.

High winds: Cause damage to the upper and windward sides of plants. In severe cases plants can be uprooted. Windy weather also dries out leaves leading to browning, scorching and loss of buds, flowers and leaves.

Flooding: Soil filled with water contains too little air for plant roots to thrive. In winter when plant roots are dormant they can survive quite long periods of flooding, but in summer when the water demand of roots is high, even short periods of a few days can be fatal.

I thought we could take a closer look at flooding as it’s top of the list of problems in the garden at the moment.

Tackling Flooding Short Term

• After flooding, wash down hard surfaces and collect up debris to prevent drains blocking, soil surfaces being covered, and pollutants or contaminants lingering in the garden. Wear gloves and overalls to minimise contact with pollutants
• Keep off the soil until it is workable, to avoid compacting it and worsening the conditions
• Remove damaged shoots from affected plants
• After flooding, edible crops near to harvest are best not eaten: no assurances can be given that root crops will be safe to eat, so they should be discarded. Plants eaten raw should be discarded too, and it is prudent to avoid growing salads and other uncooked crops for  a while.
• Mulch with as much organic matter and apply compost over the root area after application
• Water well in dry spells after a waterlogged period, as plants will be more susceptible to drought stress as their softer roots could have been damaged.

Tackling Flooding Long Term

• Improve soil structure and drainage by adding even more well-rotted manure and compost, especially if the flooding was so bad that topsoil was washed away.
• Avoid smearing the sides of planting holes on heavy soils as the clay forms an impermeable barrier. It’s how large ponds and lakes are made!
• Consider planting trees on a slight mound, this will give the younger roots a bit of a breather in really wet weather.
• Grow plants in raised beds
• Choose permeable surfaces when laying drives, paths and patios to allow rain to soak in. Concreting the environment is said to be one of the biggest reasons for urban flooding.
• Roofs converted into living green roofs absorb storm water and release it slowly, but do get very heavy.
• If there is somewhere for water to go, drainage can be installed. Or, where appropriate, it may be worth digging out a ditch or seasonal pond at the lowest part of the garden to catch surplus water and let it soak in slowly.
• Choose trees and plants that are well suited to wetter soils if flooding is an annual occurrence.